Armour Archives - Alice in Cosplayland

How to make armour pieces with foam

Alice in Cosplayland — Fri, 31 May 2019 07:04:45 +0000

Foam is one of the most basic materials used in cosplay. Thanks to its properties it is very easy to cut, shape and make it become anything you can imagine. This material is also cheaper and easier to use than other materials like worbla. Today I will show you how to make armour pieces with foam.

Also, if you are a complete cosplay beginner make sure to check my article on Cosplay for beginners and familiarise yourself with some techniques and terms before you commit and buy lots of meters of foam for your cosplay. Remember that as well as armour, your cosplay will need fabric pieces, make up, probably a wig and many other bits.

This material is easy to work with but you will still need to practice with it to get the best results. If you are pretty new to foam you may want to check first my Introduction to craft foam for cosplay. The article itself is a bit outdated and I will be remaking it soon. However, it still makes a good start if you are new to the hobby, and it is both in English and Spanish (for a limited time).

The pattern

I always start all my cosplays with a pattern on paper. I usually begin drafting with a pencil to get my proportions right. Also, I keep testing it with the part of my body I want to cover to make sure it is right. Here I am making armour for my arms . Remember that if your pattern is symmetrical you only need to do half of it and fold a piece of paper in half to get the other side perfectly even.

Making the pattern takes some trial and error and several prototypes. Not all your patterns will be flat and straight forwards, some of them will need extra volume. Start by adding a few centimeters to the pieces that need the volume and adjust. Once you are happy with it go ahead, trace your pieces on your foam, including markings, and use a sharp craft knife or a box cutter to cut it. Don’t forget to name or number your pieces to make them easier to assemble. My favourite width is 5mm foam as it is both thin and sturdy but there are many thicknesses that you can choose depending on you project.

Glueing pieces and fixing gaps

Very often, you will need to glue pieces together to create a specific shape. This is where your markings come in handy, specially for bigger pieces. My preferred method to glue foam is with contact adhesive. It is fast and clean and has the best bonding results. Remember to cut your pieces at an angle if your joints are very sharp. Also, test how your pieces fit before you glue them so you can modify them accordingly.

Once your piece is glued cut any excess and get ready to smooth any sharp edges on the next step. Also, if there is any gaps or holes you need to fix, you can use a flexible filler to make them perfect. Here I am using Flexi Filler but there are many other options to do this.

Sanding and bevelling

Many people think that using the pieces as they are is enough. Don’t get me wrong, it is enough, but for a better finish you may want to sand the edges of your foam. I use a rotary tool to do this. I first start with a harsher sanding paper and then move to a finer one. You could even go ahead and finish with wet sanding for a perfectly smooth surface, but very often this won’t be necessary.

Adding details

There are many ways of adding details, they deserve a full article just to talk about them. A typical trick is to glue extra pieces on top of your base layer. Here, I added round indents with the rotary tool to simulate screws. I also used my pirographer to create creases on the back which help you get a crisp pointy finish at the front. You can also use it for decorations if you prefer.

Shaping foam

Foam is very flexible and will easily adapt to your body or any shape you need. However, if you want it to keep the shape you chose for it, you are going to need heat. A heatgun is probably the best solution. You can use plastic domes or jars to give them a curved look, if you don’t have one handy feel free to use your knees, legs or anything else you have around. Foam gets cold very quickly and you can handle it without getting burnt after just a few seconds.

Furthermore, when you use the heatgun on top of your foam you are slightly melting its surface. This makes the surface smooth and much easier to paint later on. Do not skip this step if you want good results. If your piece didn’t go according to plan feel free to reheat as many times as you need, but remember that you may also flatten any previous shape you created beforehand.

Final results

Of course, how well your armour pieces look will depend on several factors like how much time you spent working on your piece, how much experience you have, how crafty you are or how good your foam is. Do not despair if your first armour doesn’t look right, it takes time to improve. Once you are happy with all your pieces you can go to the next stages of priming, painting and weathering, but that is a story for another tutorial!

If you are really into cosplay why don’t you check my Cosplay Planner. It has lots of useful pages to plan your cosplays, conventions and photoshoots, as well as several agendas. Furthermore, visit my pattern downloadables if you need some help with your cosplay patterns and full instructions on how to sew your patterns.

Also, if you really liked this article on how to make armour pieces with foam you can say thanks visiting my Ko-Fi page. There are no subscriptions and it helps me work on more tutorials and articles for you. You can also write a comment here and show your support, that is fine with me too. Let me know what you think and don’t forget to share. Happy crafting!

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How to make the Slave Princess Leia Metal Bikini

Alice in Cosplayland — Wed, 16 Dec 2015 11:56:00 +0000

A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away…I know you wanted to know how I made the slave Leia cosplay. It is a must in any cosplayer wardrobe, and here I bring you a step by step on how I made this one. I can’t think of a better way of celebrating the release of the new films this weekend. Here is how to make the slave princess Leis metal bikini.

First steps

The first thing I did was gathering some reference pictures, not only from the film and photoshoots but also from expositions, here is one I first noticed that the fabric of the boots and bra wasn’t green (yeah, I always thought it was green). After some research, the main materials I used for my cosplay were : Craft foam, 5mm foam, slit leather, silk lining, classic worbla and black worbla.

I worked out the measurements on an average S/M size woman, saying the hips were around 90cm as well as chest. For the later I used a bra of that size as reference. Then I drafted my first sketches.

The bottom part

This part was the most time consuming one. It has many many little details here and there. The core of the piece is 5 mm foam. Then I sandwiched it with classic worbla and added all the details rolling heated scraps of black worbla. Also, the balls were done with polystyrene half balls which I covered with worbla too.

The bra

This part is maybe the most complicated to do. First I taped my bra with paper tape and drew the thing on it. Remember you only need to draw half because the pattern is symmetrical. I cut the pieces of the bra, dividing it on 4 main pieces, although some of them are cut in halves. I shaped it with my heatgun. Again I used 5 mm foam as a core.

This is how it looked after covering the foam with black worbla and using the heatgun over and over and over again in order to shape it properly, always trying it on the mannequin for an acurate fit. I reinforced the center with normal worbla, which is slightly stronger than the black one and carved the details with a blunt knife. The fabric was glued with contact adhesive.

Hair accesories

We have the hairpins that go to the sides and the one that covers the end of the braid, both come in two parts. They are pretty straight forward.

I used normal craft foam as a core, drew the pattern, cut it, and sandwiched it with classic worbla. For the round parts i did the same with more foam and black worbla and added smaller details with a very fine leather cord. Also, to make the surface uneven, like in the original costume, I added some details with 3D paint. Here you can see the difference, all the pieces have this little detail. I shaped slightly the edges and attached a clip to the back with more worbla.

This part follows the same process, just adding the detail with rolled black worbla this time. To hold the braid inside I put some extra 5mm foam so the braid was tighter on the inside. The foam is springy so it holds it secure and you can remove it if needed.

Hair extensions

I had to do the hairstyle using several hair extensions. The base was one of those cheating doughnuts to make the bun. I placed the hair around the bun and I glued the excess at the bottom. I also used tons of hairspray to keep it there. Later, I covered the bottom with felt to secure it and I put a couple of clips at the back. It still needs bobby pins to attach it properly and safely. Finally, I glued a very long braid (or effectively two) around the bun.

Bracelets

I totally forgot to take pictures of the snake like bracelet, but it was basically a long stripe of 5mm foam with rounded edges covered again in black worbla. The wrist one is basically more of the same process, foam core, sandwich, rolled details.

Boots

Oh yes, this was hell. Wearing the shoes that I was going to use I taped my leg with paper tape and drew the shape as I wanted it. Later on I cut it on split leather getting a pattern like the one above. You need a bit of trial and error to do this and I recommend you to try first on scrap fabric.

Then I used contact glue to attach the leather to the shoe. Make sure you have enough space to introduce your feet later on.

The embellishment was done in two parts. I carved the 5mm foam to shape it as I wanted plus a strip that would go around my leg. Then, I added extra details with more black worbla. I had to drill holes on the embellishment and the leather with a rotatory tool in order to sew it later. The bottom part is attached with cord and not sewn.

Painting process

And last but not least I painted the it all with a brass colour using my airbrush. Then, I added shadows to the recess with watered black paint to give it more depth.

And this is the cosplay worn by Sara H. Pictures taken by Jose Luis Lago and make up by Lorena Cortés. The sandy beaches of my city were a perfect background for it.

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The post How to make the Slave Princess Leia Metal Bikini appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Astrid’s shoulder pads tutorial

Alice in Cosplayland — Mon, 01 Dec 2014 23:36:00 +0000

As this is Astrid’s shoulder pads tutorial. I am working on her right now and I thought I may as well do a tutorial. If you thought this pauldrons had an easy shape think twice! In fact, it is easy, just the pattern is a bit funny

Este es el tutorial para hacer las hombreras de Astrid. Esto es en lo que estoy trabajando ahora y pensé que a lo mejor podía hacer un tutorial. Si pensasteis que las hombreras tenían una forma sencilla pensadlo otra vez! La verdad es que es fácil, lo que pasa que el patrón es un poco raro

The process / El proceso

First I started figuring out the shape using paper and (if possible) a mannequin or dress form to try the shape. I had to readjust it several times, in the end I left the endings a bit bigger than needed as I would cut them later. The idea is to get a bigger curve each time

Primero empecé intentando averiguar la forma de la hombrera con papel y (si lo tenéis) con un maniquí para probar la forma. Tuve que reajustarlo varias veces, al final dejé las piezas más largas de lo necesario para poder cortarlas más tarde. La idea principal es hacer la curva más grande cada vez

Later on I copied those shapes in EVA foam y las corté

Después pasé las plantillas a goma EVA and I cut them

Now comes the fun, I used hot glue to stick it all together.There is no picture but I strongly recommend to reinforce the inner part of the pauldron with fabric or more foam

Ahora viene la parte divertida, usé silicona caliente para pegarlo todo junto. No hay foto pero yo os aconsejaría reforzar la parte interior de la hombrera con tela o más foam

And now for the round studs, I cut polyestirene balls in half and alternated them on the pauldron. Maybe you could use pins instead. Also you can notice I added a couple of scratches, battle damage!

Y nos quedan las tachas redondas, corté bolitas de poliestireno por la mitad y las fui alternando en la hombrera. También podríais usar chinchetas. Además podéis ver que he añadido un par de arañazos, daños en la batalla!

Maybe next time I show you the painting process? 😉 The next step is Astrid’s axe

Quizá para el próximo tutorial os enseño el proceso de pintado? 😉 El siguiente paso es el hacha de Astrid

The post Astrid’s shoulder pads tutorial appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Introduction to craft foam for cosplay

Alice in Cosplayland — Fri, 11 Apr 2014 19:28:00 +0000

Material

This material is called Ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA), it is similar to a thermoplastic and it is very soft and flexible. Ideal to make light armor. You can find it in different thicknesses and shapes. You can usually buy 3mm foam, called craft foam, in paper shops or art shops very cheap (1€ or less for a very big sheet). Thicker foam can be found on the mats you use for camping (4 – 5 € a mat) and even thicker and harder mats for kids use this material (10 – 12 € for 6 puzzle mats). The best characteristic of this material is that it can be molded with heat and it keeps the shape! (it has its limitations tho) the bad news is that any marks and indents will probably stay there if you are not carefull while you wear it.

Este material se llama Etilvinacetato (EVA), es similar a un termoplástico y es muy blando y flexible. Ideal para hacer armaduras ligeras. Podéis encontrarlo de diferentes grosores y formas. Normalmente puedes comprar foam de 3mm o así, llamado goma EVA en librerias, tiendas de arte, y en los chinos muy barato (1€ o menos por una lámina muy grande). Podéis encontrar foam más grueso en las colchonetas que se usan para ir de acampada ( 3 – 4 € en Decathlon) e incluso más grueso y duro en los puzles para niños (10-12 € por 6 piezas). La mejor característica de este material es que se puede moldear con calor y mantiene la forma! (Con sus limitaciones, claro) La mala notica es que cualquier marca o roce que le hagas con más o menos fuerza se puede quedar ahí si no tienes cuidado cuando lo llevas puesto.

Pieces I used for the cross of my Vampire Kindred cosplay
Piezas que usé para la cruz de mi cosplay de Vampire Kindred

Cutting
Corte

Congratulations, this material is very easy to cut. Usually I will make a pattern with paper and draw it directly on the foam. You can cut it with scissors or with a cutting knife (I strongly recommend this for small details and inner parts)

Felicidades, este material es muy fácil de cortar. Normalmente hago los patrones en papel y los dibujo diréctamente en foam. Puedes cortarlo con tijeras o con un cutter (yo recomiendo esto para los detalles y zonas que estén por dentro)

A useful trick is to mark the lines really hard with a pencil, that way you will get curved edges instead of sharp ones, try to cut your pieces on one go to get a better finish.

Un truco útil es marcar las líneas muy fuerte con un lápiz, de esa manera los bordes quedarán redondeados en vez de afilados, intentad cortar las piezas de una sóla pasada para que queden mejor

Another trick, sometimes you need several layers of foam to get a 3D effect, if that is so cut one piece and use that piece as a pattern you will minimize any possible slip of your scissors when you cut the first one (you can also cut both at the same time)

Otro truco, a veces se necesitan diferentes capas de foam para dar un efecto 3D, si es así cortad la primera pieza y usadla de patrón para la siguiente, de esa manera minimizaréis cualquier posible fallo que hayáis tenido con las tijeras cuando cortasteis la primera (también podéis cortar las dos piezas a la vez)

Shaping

Forma

As I said before you can shape foam with heat, for small pieces an iron works great but do be careful as the corners will roll up too much if you overdo it, for black widow I used this technique to give the belt a convexe form, works great for corners you want to make smooother. You can’t use the iron directly over the foam or it will really melt, put a paper or a piece of fabric between them. My black cat mask and the knee pads of my vampire are also shaped like that

Como dije antes podéis dar forma al foam con calor, para piezas pequeñas una plancha funciona muy bien pero tened cuidad porque las esquinas se enroscarán demasiado si os pasáis, para black widow usé este método para conseguir una forma convexa, funciona genial si quieres suavizar las esquinas de una armadura. No podéis usar la plancha directamente o derretiréis el foam de verdad, poned un papel o un trozo de tela en medio. Mi máscara de black cat y mis rodilleras de vampiro también están hechas así

I don’t have a heat gun, but my heater works as well, even a hair dryer could work for this but it would be a bit less comfy to use. Basically for this kind of sharp detail you just need to heat your foam and fold it, try to pinch it but be careful with the nails. Don’t worry about going hard on it as it opens again if you don’t glue it

No tengo pistola de calor pero mi radiador funciona igual de bien, os puede servir incluso el secador de pelo pero sería un poco más incómo de usar, Basicamente, para este tipo de detalle angulos tenéis que calentar el foam y doblarlo, intentad pellizcar el borde pero tened cuidado con las uñas. Nos os preocupéis en hacerlo con fuerza porque la goma EVA tiende a volver a su forma original hasta cierto punto si no la pegas a un sitio.

If your piece is really big you may consider putting wires inside appart from the heat in order to keep the shape. Here I glued a wire to the inside (bottom) and covered it with a ribbon to secure it (sorry no good pics, the ribbon is under)

Si vuestra pieza es bastante grande podéis considerar usar alambre por dentro además del calor para que mantenga la forma. Aquí le metí alambre por detrás (a la parte de abajo) y lo cubrí con un lazo para asegurarme de que no se despegaba (lo siento no tengo mejores fotos, la cinta está debajo)

Obviously you can use a base and mold your foam over it, this works best with round parts and polystyrene balls for example, with my black cat mask I used my own face as base, the material gets cold quickly so you should be fine if you are careful and wait a couple of seconds after applying the heat. Little pieces under the foam will shape it.

Obviamente podéis usar una base para moldear vuestro foam sobre ella, funciona mejor en partes redondeadas y pegado a bolas de poliestireno por ejemplo, con mi máscara de black cat usé mi cara de base, el material enfría rápido y no deberíais tener problema si tenéis cuidado y esperáis un par de segundos a que se enfríe antes de usarlo. Pequeñas piezas bajo el foam le darán relieve.

Seen here

If your shape is extreme you may need to make several cuts to get the proper shape, if you have further details on top these cuts won’t be noticeable (same as if you are very careful and clean when you glue it) Remember that small pieces are always easier to mold.

Si la forma es extrema puede que necesites hacer cortes para conseguir la forma deseada, si la armadura tiene detalles encima no se verán (y si eres muy cuidadoso y limpio al pegarlo tampoco). Recordad que las piezas pequeñas son siempre más fáciles de moldear.

Seen here

Glueing
Pegado

The best glue you can use for foam silicon, you have cold silicon, which works great with foam but it needs time to dry. The other good option is hot glue, it dries very quickly but it has a problem, as it uses heat you need to be careful when you apply it as you can slightly bend the material or get uneven shapes if the glue dries too quickly. E6000 is always a good solution as it is very very strong and flexible but again dries slowly. Superglue is about the worst option, it isn’t elastic and it will probably crack, specially in edges, also, if you don’t get it right first time it creates a layer of glue that will be very difficult to reglue.

El mejor pegamento que podéis usar es la silicona líquida, funciona genial con el foam pero necesita tiempo para secar. La otra buena opción es la silicona caliente, se seca muy rápido pero tiene un problema, como usa calor podríais deformar la goma EVA si no tenéis cuidado o incluso se puede quedar una forma rara si se enfría muy rápido. El superglue es quizá la peor opción, no es elástico y probablemente se romperá, especialmente en las esquinas. Si no se pega la pieza bien a la primera os será casi imposible volver a pegarla porque crea una película de pegamento por encima del material que no se adhiere a nada más.

Detailing
Detalles

When you make armour you may need to do an edge to the foam, this can be done with 3D glue or fabric paint or also with hot glue. Obviously you can do drawings as well.

Cuando hacéis armaduras es posible que necesiteis hacerles un filo, esto se puede hacer con pintura o pegamento 3D o también con silicona caliente. Obviamente también podéis hacer dibujitos

An advantage of the foam is that you can sew it perfectly well, some rough details can be done like that, or you can also glue cord to it

Una ventaja del foam es que lo puedes coser fácilmente, algún detalle rústico lo puedes hacer así o también puedes pegarle cordón.

Foam is very soft, if you draw over it hard enough it will keep the shape, for thicker foam you can even use an exacto knife before for deeper cuts.

El foam es muy blando, si dibujáis sobre él lo suficientemente fuerte se quedará la forma, si usáis foam más grueso podéis incluso usar un cutter antes para que queden más profundas las marcas

If you want even deeper detail you can use a soldering iron and melt the foam, but do be careful! As the fumes are toxic (the material per se isn’t) The dremmel also works.

Si queréis detalles más profundos podéis usar un soldador para derretir el foam, pero tened cuidado! Los humos son tóxicos (el material en sí no) La dremmel también funciona.

Seen here

In the next tutorials I’ll try to cover finishing touches, painting, patterning, attaching and transport 🙂

En los próximos tutoriales intentaré cubrir el acabado, pintado, la creación de patrones, los enganches y el transporte 🙂

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