Also, if you are a complete cosplay beginner make sure to check my article on Cosplay for beginners and familiarise yourself with some techniques and terms before you commit and buy lots of meters of foam for your cosplay. Remember that as well as armour, your cosplay will need fabric pieces, make up, probably a wig and many other bits.

This material is easy to work with but you will still need to practice with it to get the best results. If you are pretty new to foam you may want to check first my Introduction to craft foam for cosplay. The article itself is a bit outdated and I will be remaking it soon. However, it still makes a good start if you are new to the hobby, and it is both in English and Spanish (for a limited time).

The pattern

I always start all my cosplays with a pattern on paper. I usually begin drafting with a pencil to get my proportions right. Also, I keep testing it with the part of my body I want to cover to make sure it is right. Here I am making armour for my arms . Remember that if your pattern is symmetrical you only need to do half of it and fold a piece of paper in half to get the other side perfectly even.

Making the pattern takes some trial and error and several prototypes. Not all your patterns will be flat and straight forwards, some of them will need extra volume. Start by adding a few centimeters to the pieces that need the volume and adjust. Once you are happy with it go ahead, trace your pieces on your foam, including markings, and use a sharp craft knife or a box cutter to cut it. Don’t forget to name or number your pieces to make them easier to assemble. My favourite width is 5mm foam as it is both thin and sturdy but there are many thicknesses that you can choose depending on you project.

Glueing pieces and fixing gaps

Very often, you will need to glue pieces together to create a specific shape. This is where your markings come in handy, specially for bigger pieces. My preferred method to glue foam is with contact adhesive. It is fast and clean and has the best bonding results. Remember to cut your pieces at an angle if your joints are very sharp. Also, test how your pieces fit before you glue them so you can modify them accordingly.

Once your piece is glued cut any excess and get ready to smooth any sharp edges on the next step. Also, if there is any gaps or holes you need to fix, you can use a flexible filler to make them perfect. Here I am using Flexi Filler but there are many other options to do this.

Sanding and bevelling

Many people think that using the pieces as they are is enough. Don’t get me wrong, it is enough, but for a better finish you may want to sand the edges of your foam. I use a rotary tool to do this. I first start with a harsher sanding paper and then move to a finer one. You could even go ahead and finish with wet sanding for a perfectly smooth surface, but very often this won’t be necessary.

Adding details

There are many ways of adding details, they deserve a full article just to talk about them. A typical trick is to glue extra pieces on top of your base layer. Here, I added round indents with the rotary tool to simulate screws. I also used my pirographer to create creases on the back which help you get a crisp pointy finish at the front. You can also use it for decorations if you prefer.

Shaping foam

Foam is very flexible and will easily adapt to your body or any shape you need. However, if you want it to keep the shape you chose for it, you are going to need heat. A heatgun is probably the best solution. You can use plastic domes or jars to give them a curved look, if you don’t have one handy feel free to use your knees, legs or anything else you have around. Foam gets cold very quickly and you can handle it without getting burnt after just a few seconds.

Furthermore, when you use the heatgun on top of your foam you are slightly melting its surface. This makes the surface smooth and much easier to paint later on. Do not skip this step if you want good results. If your piece didn’t go according to plan feel free to reheat as many times as you need, but remember that you may also flatten any previous shape you created beforehand.

Final results

Of course, how well your armour pieces look will depend on several factors like how much time you spent working on your piece, how much experience you have, how crafty you are or how good your foam is. Do not despair if your first armour doesn’t look right, it takes time to improve. Once you are happy with all your pieces you can go to the next stages of priming, painting and weathering, but that is a story for another tutorial!

If you are really into cosplay why don’t you check my Cosplay Planner. It has lots of useful pages to plan your cosplays, conventions and photoshoots, as well as several agendas. Furthermore, visit my pattern downloadables if you need some help with your cosplay patterns and full instructions on how to sew your patterns.

Also, if you really liked this article on how to make armour pieces with foam you can say thanks visiting my Ko-Fi page. There are no subscriptions and it helps me work on more tutorials and articles for you. You can also write a comment here and show your support, that is fine with me too. Let me know what you think and don’t forget to share. Happy crafting!

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How I made the wings

Making bat wings is very easy. You can draft your own pattern but if you don’t want to you can download my pattern below. Once you print the pages, assemble the pieces and cut the pattern. Then, use a pen to transfer the pattern to 5mm foam. I bought my foam at Poly-Props but there are many other shops where you can buy craft foam. Remember that you will have to draft the wings twice symmetrically so you will need a big sheet.

To get a more defined look, you can mark the ridges of the pattern with a ball pen or a pencil. Then, you just need to cut your wings with scissors or a craft knife. Don’t forget to use a cutting mat if you decide to go for the craft knife!

Next, I used two elastic bands to wear the wings. Also, in order to reinforce the structure, I added a second layer of foam to the back part.

Finally, I used a heatgun to shape the ridges of the wings. If you don’t have a heatgun you can use a heater or a stove. However, it may take longer and it may not give you the same results. Remember to hold the ridges together when you heat them to keep the shape.

I forgot to take pictures of my wings while I was wearing them. In the end I gave them to my niece because she wanted to be a vampire. Having a cosplayer auntie is actually cool. The wings are comfortable to wear and very easy to build. If you use skin coloured fabric they will be virtually invisible! Here is the download link:

Remember to print the pages at 100% settings for adults or reduce the percentage for kids. Play with the patterns as much as you need. Also, remember that you can paint the wings any colour you like. Be creative.

The post Foam bat wings tutorial and pattern appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

In this case, I was making Raven’s belt. Her belt has lots of half domes and I decided to attach lights to them to give it a sense of magic. Actually, the domes are christmas baubles. The ones I chose come in halves. I only had to remove the tip with pliers.

Before I started with the lights I used a Sharpie marker to paint the baubles. Then, I used foam to create the embellishments. Finally, I glued the pieces together. In order to difuse the lights I used chiffon fabric. I attached two different types of lights.

Adding a string of lights

For the belt, I used a string of microLED lights. They come in a circuit already wired and attached to a battery holder. First, I made holes to the base of my domes, which was made of foam. Then, I put the LEDs through the holes. I also added extra foam to make the lights more stable.

Adding LEDs with a button battery

The circuits I used for the hands were very simple. Similar to the other lights, I cut a whole in the bottom part of the base. Then, I glued a sleeve where I hid the button battery. I made sure the LED showed through the hole. The LED will be on as far as it is touching the right poles of the battery. To disconnect them you just need to move them. I used a similar technique to build my Vocaloid headphones.

Final touches

The final step was to hide the cables and glue the attachments. For example, I braided gold elastic to my belt. I also added elastic and velcro to the lights on my hands

It is very easy to add simple lights to props. You just need to remember to leave enough room to hide them properly. They are very cheap and will give a great finish to your cosplay. Above you can see my Raven cosplay from Teen Titans, photo by Chris Baugh

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Hoy os enseño como hice mis alas de murcielago plegables. Siempre he querido hacerme unas alas desde que empecé a hacer cosplay y fue realmente muy divertido de hacer . Hice estas alas para mi Vampire Kindred del Forsaken World.

Making the base

I made my bat wings with PVC tubes of two thickness because I thought they would be more resiliant and light than wood. First, I made a mock up with cardboard and pins so I would know the size of my wings beforehand.

Hice mis alas con tubos de PVC de diferentes grosores que consideré que eran más resistentes y ligeras que con madera. Primero hice una prueba con cartón y chinchetas para saber el tamaño que iban a tener mis alas

Before I cut the tubes I made the frame where I would screw them, mine would be hidden by a jacket so I made it comfortable and sturdy. I cut a square in wood (or rather asked my father to do it) and used filling for the inner side (otherwise your back will hurt lots afterwards). Then, I made a sleeve of strong fabric. The fabric is also a plus because it will keep your wings in place even if your wood breaks.

Antes de cortar los tubos hice la base donde engancharía las alas, la mía iba a estar tapada por la chaqueta así que me aseguré de que quedara fuerte y cómoda. Corté un rectángulo de madera en pané (o mejor dicho le pedí a mi padre que lo cortara) y utilicé guata para hacer más cómoda la parte que daba a mi espalda (porque si no iba a ser incómodo y doloroso). Después le hice una funda con tela rígida que es además un plus en caso de que se rompa la madera porque mantendría las alas en su sitio.

Assembling the tubes

Roughly the size of the tubes was from 70cm the longest (middle one) 50cm the medium ones (outer one) and 30 cm the shortest (bottom one). A tip would be to keep everything as straight as possible and make sure you make the holes in line. The bottom holes were made with the frame closed to make sure it would close and would be in line.

Aproximadamente la longitud de los tubos era de unos 70cm el más largo (el de en medio) 50 cm los medianos (como el más exterior) y 30cm los más pequeños (el de abajo). Un buen consejo es mantener todo lo más recto y en línea posible al hacer los agujeros. Los de abajo los hicimos con la estructura cerrada para asegurarnos que las alas se plegarían del todo y de que estaban rectas.

We made holes in the wood and the fabric and put hinges on them. All of the screws where reinforced with washers. This way, I could easily fold my wings and store them away.

Le hicimos agujeros a la madera y a la tela y le pusimos visagras. Todos los tornillos van reforzados con arandelas. De esta manera, es más fácil plegar las alas y guardarlas.

Covering the wings

Keep in mind that your frame could be seen through the fabric on top so it would be better to paint them black

Tenéis que tener en cuenta que es posible que se transparente la estructura de las alas así que es una buena idea pintarlas de negro.

To cover my wings I used fabric. The trick with this kind of frame is to leave it open! I folded my fabric over the extended frame. Then I drew the shape of the wing and saw as in the picture. Only the upper part and the side part are sewn to the frame. The bottom part is open and it is very important to leave a hole in the top as well! Otherwise it would break and make silly creases. Do secure that part to the frame with a few stitches or the fabric will just slip down.

Para cubrir mis alas usé tela. El truco con este tipo de ala es dejarla abierta! Doble mi tela sobre las alas extendidas. Después dibuje la forma del ala y cosí como en la foto. Solo la parte de arriba y la lateral están cosidas a la estructura. La parte de abajo está abierta y es muy importante dejar un agujero en la parte de arriba! Si no se romperá la tela y hará arrugas tontas, eso sí asegurad esta parte con hilo a la estructura o la tela se resbalará. 

Harness

Last but not least is how to attach it to your body. I used heavy duty stripes and sew them to the fabric of my wings, it is like a backpack. If you want to extrasecure your wings also add a strip that crosses under your chest (with a closure). As my wings were covered by my jacket and I wanted them to be easy to remove I didn’t add it. To embelish them I also added some hook like bones in foam to the upper part.

Por último pero no menos importante es como atarlas al cuerpo. Usé una correa fuerte (Leroy Merlin) y la cosí a la tela de la espalda, como si fuera una mochila. Si quieres que tus alas realmente no se muevan pasa otra correa por debajo del pecho (con un cierre). Como mis alas estaban cubiertas por la chaqueta no lo añadí para que fuera más fácil quitárlas. Para embellezerlas también añadí unos ganchitos a la parte de arriba con foam.

Wearing the wings

As you see the wings were comfortably closed when I was standing but awesomely huge when I opened them. I didn’t have time to add a mechanism to open them so they open manually… for now…

Como podéis ver las alas estaban cómodamente plegadas cuando las dejaba sueltas pero genialmente enormes cuando las abría. No tuve tiempo de añadir un mecanismo de apertura así que de momento se abren manualmente… de momento…

These wings were huge and a bit uncomfortable to wear. I actually made a smaller version of bat wings just using foam and elastic bands for a different cosplay. They are perfect for something convention friendly. When I wore the ones above I bumped into everybody! But it was worth it.

Estas alas son enormes y un poco incomodas de llevar. En realidad hice unas alas de murciélago más pequeñas solo usando foam y elásticos para otro cosplay. Son perfectas para llevar a una convención. Cuando llevé las de arriba me choqué con todo el mundo! Pero mereció la pena.

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Before I started this big project I researched all the internet and worked out mechanisms and materials which where lightweight, affordable and easy enough to find. Finally I opted on a string mechanism that I could pull with my fingers and I used foam for most of my construction. Lots of patience, trial and error and my giant claw came to live.

The first drafts

Before you start building your prop, make sure to have a plan for it. This step is very important as it will save you time and materials later on. After several sketches, I opted for this pattern which was slightly bigger than my own hand but still proportionate. Then I made notes on where I would install the “joints and tendons” (in red and yellow) and the support mechanism where my hand would sit (the support in green and the rings to pull the tendons in blue).

The core structure

When you are making a giant hand you need to make sure you have enough space for your hand in the inside. In my case, my hand is not visible from the outside and it needs to sit comfortably in the inside. I made a handle to grab my hand with 10mm foam. Obviously, foam is very flimsy so I reinforced it with. My solution was reinforcing it with worbla. Covering it with this material I made sure the core wouldn’t collapse when I pulled the strings.

In order to reach the strings that would make my hand close, I made rings that would fit my fingers later on. You can grab these rings inside of your giant hand and pull at them easily. I used plastic tubes to create the base of my fingers. Then, I marked the joints imitating the ones in my hand

The string mechanism

If you look closely, you will notice that I cut wedges in every single joint on one side. You need to do this in order to let the mechanism fold on itself. It won’t work otherwise. Also, I drilled holes to the tip of my fingers and attached the cord. I chose a thick cotton thread as I knew the knots would resist very well. Actually, I tried nylon but it was very slippery and the knots didn’t stay as well. I also drilled holes to my handle and fed the thread through them.

Now that I had all my fingers and the cords through them I used more worbla to keep the tubes attached to the core in place.

Notice how the thumb only has two joints and sits in an opposite direction to the other fingers. It was now the turn to attach the rings. I made sure my thread was tense but not pulling. Then, I added a ring to the bottom of each finger. I can actually fold each finger individually but as I was planning to use this prop in a competition I also attached a piece of plastic that holds all the rings at the same time. If I pull this piece I can close all the fingers at the same time.

The cover

I needed the hand to be much thicker. In order to achieve this, I added layers of foa and filling to my hand to start shaping it.

The inside of the hand was still hollow but I used pieces of foam to fill all the gaps around them. A heatgun is very useful to shape all the foam. I cut or sanded any excess. It was a process of trial and error. Narrow strips of foam made my tendons.

When I was happy with the overall shape of the hand I used 2mm foam to cover it all. I used the heatgun to shape it and a sharp pencil to create the creases on the hand.

Finally, I covered each individual phalanx with another piece of foam. I made sure the joints weren’t visible but they still needed to move freely. The rest of the arm is actually more foam in the form of a tube and some more details with foam.

Final result

Once I was happy with my hand I primed it and added some colour with acrylic paint. I used a gradient from black to red and protected it all with satin varnish. This is how my hand looked with my cosplay when I finished it.

The whole process took me about two weeks of very intense labour day and night. And this was after weeks of research. However, it was all worth it and I would do it all over again. Check the end of the video to see my hand in movement!

The post How to make a giant hand that moves appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Painting technique

When you paint a big prop you need paints that have good coverage. Above you have a picture of the colours I used.

First, I started with a mix of silver and black for the blade. Later I applied pure silver. The handle simulates bone, therefore I used a paint called bleach bone. Finally, I used copper and red for the last details.

Cuando pintas un prop de gran tamaño necesitas pinturas con alta pigmentación. Arriba tenéis una foto con los colores que usé.

Primero empecé con una mezcla de plateado y negro para pintar la hoja. Después apliqué solo color plata. El mango simulaba hueso, así que usé una pintura llamada blanco hueso. Finalmente, usé cobre y rojo para el resto de detalles.

As a final step, I used a toothpick and my fingers to simulate blood splatters. The paint I used is called Blood for the blood god by Citadel. However, any glossy paint should work.

Como paso final, usé un palillo y mis dedos para simular las salpicaduras de sangre. La pintura que usé se llama Sangre para el dios de la Sangre de Citadel. Sin embargo, cualquier pintura brillante debería funcionar.

Time-lapse video

In the video you can see the process to paint a sword made of foam. Also, don’t forget to seal your foam with glue or PlastiDip before you start painting otherwise you won’t get a good finish.

En el video podéis ver el proceso de como pinta la espada hecha de foam. Además, no os olvidéis de sellar vuestro foam con pegamento o PlastiDip antes de empezar a pintar, de otra manera no conseguiréis un buen acabado.

In the end, this sword was part of my Dark Eldar Wych costume. In general, I used several weathering techniques in order to make my costume look postapocalyptic. Did I succeed?

Al final, esta espada fué parte de mi Bruja eldar oscura. En general, usé diferentes técnicas de desgaste para crear su apariencia postapocalíptica. ¿Creeis que lo conseguí?

The post How to paint a sword made of foam appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Carving the foam

First we start with our pattern over the thick foam. You can pin it to the foam to get the best results and trace it with a marker.

Primero empezamos poniendo el patrón sobre el foam. Podéis usar alfileres para mantenerlo en su sitio y luego dibujarlo con un rotulador permanente.

Next we have to cut our shape, I recommend you to use a knife to be precise, also you want to bevel the corners, it is so easy to do it with this material. Remember to do both sides (draw a line on the side to know how deep your cuts need to be). If your foam had any weird shapes because of how you stored it (oops) it is time to make it flat with the heatgun

Lo siguiente es cortar la forma, os recomiendo que useis un cutter para ser más precisos, además hay que biselar los laterales, es muy fácil con este material. Recuerda hacerlo en ambos lados (dibuja una line en el lateral para saber como de profundo tiene que ser el corte). Si vuestro foam tenía una forma rara por como lo habéis guardado (ups) es el momento de alisarlo con la pistola de calor

Attaching the pole

The best way to make sure that our axe is straigh is to make it go through our PVC tube. This way, even if you swing it around the pieces will stay together. For this we draw lines to mark te position of the blade and we make a cut on both sides to the top. A good trick was to glue a PVC joint to the top to keep all together.

La mejor manera de asegurarnos de que nuestra hacha está recta es que atraviese nuestro tubo de PVC. Aunque la mováis mucho no se desprenderan las partes. Para esto marcamos la profundidad y posición de la hoja del hacha y hacemos un corte a los dos lados del tubo hasta la parte de arriba. Un buen truco fue pegar un tubo de unión a la parte superior para mantener todo en posición

Extra details

The extra details where made with 2mm foam and any round shaped stud (you can use goggles or glue dots or even pins). All was painted with a sponge and silver paint (more rusty). I applied highlights and shadows to certain places with black and white paint. Don’t forget to apply 3 coats of plastic vinyl or 6 of school glue before you paint it for extra smoothness

El resto de detalles los hice con foam de 2mm y piezas redondas (podeis usar ojos saltones de plastico o gotas de cola o incluso chinchetas). Todo lo pinte con pintura plateada y una esponja (mas rustico). Acentué las luces y las sombras con pintura blanca y negra. No os olvidéis de aplicar 3 capas de plástico vinílico o 6 de cola blanca antes de pintar para que quede más suave.

Last I decorated the axe with pink and blue elastic bands, scraps of leather and fur. The skull of the handle was also made carving the 5mm foam

Por último decoré el hacha con elásticos de colores, retales de cuero, y pelo. La calavera del mango también está tallada en foam de 5mm

The post How to make Astrid’s axe appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

How I made Yui Hongo’s dragon headdress

As usual, you will start drawing the patterns in paper, don’t be afraid to test several shapes and sizes so they fit your head. You don’t want something too small nor too big that breaks balance with your head.

For the ears, cut the pattern in fabric. Then, add fabric glue to the borders to stop the fabric from frailing.

With wire create the base of your ears. If you fold the wire on itself and secure it together with tape, it won’t move. To embellish it all, hide the wire under 2mm foam. You can see on the right how the foam looks after applying heat with the heatgun. Shape it with your hands and be careful not tu burn yourself. I explain more in my introduction to craf foam for cosplay tutorial.

After you draw your pattern in 10mm foam or plastazote you can start crafting the 3D shape. Use a knife to shape the horns and give them volume. Make sure you round your corners to give it a natural look.

To reinforce the headdress, after gluing it with hotglue, add a piece of foam to the back if necessary. To finish, use acrylic paints and beads to decorate it. I used pearlescent paint to make it look shiny.

The result

And this is how it looks with the rest of the dress. Remember that I wrote full Cosplay Notes on how I made Yui Hongo. She was one of my favourite characters in Fushigi Yuugi. Did you ever read the manga?

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There are several varieties of naginatas. Maybe the most common is the one with a very long pole resembling a hallberd. There exists another option with a much shorter pole which is easier to handle but still great in size. Naginata for fighting men and warrior monks were called ō-naginata. The kind used by women was called ko-naginata and was less heavy.

Starting with a draft

Naginatas are big. Mine was about 1.3 meters long. This is a comparison side by side with a katana. For my project I needed something very sturdy so I opted to make my naginata from a single piece. Looking back, I maybe could have tried to make it into two pieces as it is actually difficult to transport. Use paper to get an idea of how big you want your weapon. Make sure you get all the proportions right before you cut your foam.

Using foam as the core

Similar to my katana tutorial, I used 5mm plastazote foam to make the core of my weapon. The handle was cut in two parts and glued to the blade with contact cement. Remember to leave a long enough tail to get some grip for your glue. Foam is a very easy material to use and you can sand it with ease. After I sanded the edge and the handle, I added extra details with 2mm foam and glued them with contact cement as well.

Worbla to make it sturdy

On itself, foam is a very flimsy material. That is why you need some kind of coverage to make it sturdy. I chose to use Black Worbla, which is a thermoplastic. If you don’t know this material check my worbla guide. It is easy to heat with a heatgun. Cover your naginata with the heated material. Press the sides together and cut the excess. You can fix the joints with some more heat and a flat tool. Be careful as this materials gets hot very quickly and you could burn yourself. Adding a wooden pole to the core is also a good idea but you will need to cut a space on your foam to make it fit without bulking up.

Add details

When you are satisfied with the base of your naginata you can add fancy details. As I said, Worbla is very maleable, if you heat it you can create ridges with a flat surface and all kind of carvings. Also, you can press it together to create a kind of clay that will get hard once it cools down. That is how I created the embellishments of my tsuba or guard of my naginata.

Final weapon

Finally, after you seal your worbla, you can use acrylic paints to paint your weapon and add any other detail like beads, tassels, a piece of fabric or jingle bells. Don’t forget to add highlights and shadows for a more realistic finish and don’t skip the varnish either as it will protect your weapon later on.

If you want a larger pole for your naginata you can use a PVC pipe as a handle instead. You may not need to cover your blade with worbla if your blade is shorter but remember that it will make your blade flimsier an wobbly. You still need to prime it and paint it tho. Using pipe joints is also a good idea if you want your weapon to be collapsible.

I hope you found this tutorial for a naginata for cosplay useful. If you feel like it, remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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Drafting the pattern

For the first part you will need: 10mm semirigid foam, a cutter, a rotatory tool, a marker and sandpaper

I happen to have a bokken so it was pretty easy just to copy the form for my pattern. As this is not something you find at home I wrote down its measures for you. My katana was 101cm long, with a maximum width of 4cm at the base and 3cm at the tip and slightly curved at the end. The original tsuba (or guard) was 8cm but it wasn’t good enough for my design so I modified it.

I grided my paper and started drafting my pattern. I liked it, but it wasn’t long enough so I had a little trick, you see the red dots? that’s where I cut my pattern and added an extra centimeter so it was now 18cm long.

First steps for the foam katana

Now cut the pieces in your 10mm foam. A good trick is to pin your pattern down and draw the shape with a marker. Use a cutter and a ruler to cut it out. I also used a soldering iron to do the holes in the guard but it is not necessary for this project.

As I happened to have 5mm foam at home I decided to glue it to the handle with contact glue on both sides of the sword. This will make your handle thicker. You can also glue two parts of 10mm foam to make your handle and then attach them to the blade. Make sure it is a strong hold or it may break.

Carving your foam katana

Now the fun part, draw how deep you want to sharpen your weapon, a good trick is to hold your finger against the foam to make straight lines with even width (my daddy told me this trick)

And now is the time to use the power tool! You have to sand your edges until you are happy, take your time to make it right. Also, remember to take breaks if the surface is too big, the tool doesn’t work as well if it is overheated. If you want to make it even, use sandpaper to finish it, it will make any bump disappear.

Covering your foam with worbla

Unfortunately, using just foam is not enough to keep your katana straight. In order to solve this you need to use a thermoplastic cover like foam. This will keep your weapon straight.

Using a heatgun, cover your katana with black worbla or a similar thermoplastic. Use a flat stick or other tools to flatten the sides and cut the excess. Remember that worbla becomes really hot. Make sure all the foam is covered and reheat again if necessary. You can add extra details using several layers of foam and covering them with worbla and also rolling the foam to create ridges.

Final result

Finally, this is how the katana looked when I finished. I will show you how to seal your worbla with glue and how to paint it in another tutorial.

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