Gathering materials

What I love about this fashion is that you can mainly use cottons and polycottons, which are fairly inexpensive, and still look amazing and royal. You are going to need a fair bit of fabric, between 2-3m for a knee-length skirt.

My fabric was very cheap. I bought it from one of my UK online shops favourites called Fabrikate1 and it was a polycotton tartan in pink colours. This rather crisp fabric but yet light would hold the shape very well.

The pattern

I first considered a circle skirt for my cosplay but browsing online I saw a few lolita tiered skirts and changed my mind. In a sense it was supposed to be easier as all the pieces are rectangles.

This skirt has 3 tiers and each tier gets longer progressively. I originally had planned on a skirt with equally long tiers. However, my piece of fabric was too short and I had to change my plan. Pro tip, plan in advance, shop later.

And now for the Maths. Each tier needs to be 2 or 3 times as long as the previous layer. Starting with the top layer which is also gathered. This means, you need to multiply your waist x3 to get tier 1, then again x3 for tier 2 and one more time x2 to get tier 3. Can’t be bothered with Maths? No worries. Let’s make it easy.

I measured my waist and it gave me a total of 72cm. 72×3 = 216cm. Let’s round up to 220cm (round to 2m if you are short of fabric or 2.5m for extra oomph). My fabric was only 200cm long X 115cm wide so I decided to make my bottom layers shorter. I cut my top layer at 21cm, then I cut 3 more pieces which were 16cm wide (that’s the top tier X3) and 6 more pieces which were 6cm wide (top tier X3 X2 = 6 lenghts). I made the waistband with the leftover fabric. These measurements included my seam allowance to get a 40 cm long skirt.

To sum up, get a piece of fabric 2m to 2.5m long and cut 10 stripes. Your first tier will have one length (21cm wide), the second will have 3 (16cm wide) and the third will have 6 (6cm wide). Much easier, right?

Assembling the skirt

Now that you have all the pieces cut let’s join them together. I used a French seam to do so. I sew my pieces wrong sides together then again right sides together. This hides the edges but it is optional. Remember tier 1 is just one piece, tier 2 has 3 parts and tier 3 has 6 parts. You will end up with three very long strips of fabric. You can make the waistband with the leftovers.

Time to gather all those ruffles. I would highly recommend you to get a ruffler foot. You can get it for less than £5 and it will save you a lot of time. Keep in mind your longest piece is at least 12 meters long. Using the ruffler foot I was able to gather and sew the pieces together at the same time. How awesome is that?

Don’t forget to add a zipper and finish the edges. In this particular skirt it is actually a good idea if you do so before you start gathering. I used my serger because it was much quicker and the pattern disguised the thread very well.

Finally, you need to add a waistband. Inserting an elastic band is a possibility too but the waistband looks nicer in my opinion. It is pretty straightforward. Add some interfacing to the fabric. Right sides together with the top of your skirt sew about 1 cm in and fold the fabric on itself hiding the raw edges inside. Top stitch or hand sew the waistband in place. It is basically like adding giant bias tape.

And that’s it for this lolita tiered skirt tutorial, finish it with a cute bow and wear it with a petticoat underneath for extra puffyness. It will look amazing if you wear it with a puffy shirt.

Liked my tutorial? Remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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Make a petticoat step by step

There are many types of petticoats. The number of layers, the finishing of the edges and the general shape of your garment will vastly depend on your project. In this case I will show you how to make the typical petticoat you would wear under a 50s style dress. In this example it will have 4 levels and a base and each layer will have ruffles atached to it.

The first step for your petticoat is to make the base. The base skirt is usually a half circle skirt that you can make with cotton or lining fabric. You can choose to make the skirt for your petticoat exactly with your measurements or slightly bigger so you can just run an elastic through it and forget about the closures. Once you cut your patter you can also mark the position of each layer. I chose to space them every 10cm.

Each tier is just a long rectangle of tulle fabric. Later on we will bunch the fabric to make ruffles. To account for the ruffles you want at least twice the length of each circumference you marked on your skirt. You can ruffle your fabric the old fashion way or you can get a ruffler foot which will save you a lot of time.

The Maths

As I am sure you would love to skip the Maths for this skirt I decided to write up some round numbers for you. The measurements below are for a skirt with a hip circumference of 100cm and a length of 40cm. It will fit easily a size S/M without a closure.

• S/M skirt: Radius 32cm – Length 40cm
• Tier 1: 10 x 400 cm
• Tier 2: 20 x 350 cm
• Tier 3: 30 x 250 cm
• Tier 4: 40 x 200 cm

However, if you decide to venture yourself in the world of Maths you can easily calculate your circunference using the following formula.

• Fabric length = π (3.14) x Radius x 2 (or the length of your ruffle)

Each of the rectangles above also have ruffled fabric attached to it for extra puffyness. You can use trim, ribbon or more tulle. I decided to cut long pieces of tulle. sew them in one long piece and fold them in half. If you want the exact length you just need to double your previous measurements for the tiers (about 35 m total). Don’t forget to add the trim to your base skirt as well!

Final steps

I find it easier to close my skirt after I have attached all the ruffles. But it is possible to close the skirt first and then sew the trims on top. Also, a zig zag stitch is a very neat option to attach each layer. Another alternative is to embellish them sewing ribbon on top of each tier.

Finally, you want to close your petticoat. It is possible to add a zipper at the back and a few snap on buttons if you find it too tight. However, it is just much easier to run an elastic band through the waistband. Just make sure your hips get through the opening. Remember you can use bias tape for the waist if you prefer it.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Remember you can support my blog in many ways, clicking my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or using some of my patterns and cosplay related downloadables! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Rolled hem for circle skirts technique

The reason why hemming a circle skirt may become a tricky task is that the length of your circle at the bottom decreases in concentrical circles as you fold it up. It is almost impossible to iron the hem without getting horrible creases. Very often you have to embed the extra fabric or use bias tape to bind the edges instead. This is the way I do a rolled hem for circle skirts still using my sewing machine and no extra aid.

1. Following the seam, sew a straight line about 5cm away from the border.
2. Fold the seam inwards and sew very close to the border, about 2cm. Your previous stitch should show at the border.
3. Trim the excess very close to the stitches.
4. Fold the border again and topstitch the seam

As you can see, the edge of your circle skirt will be straight and crisp. In some problematic areas, like those on the bias, you may still get a few creases. However, very often they will disappear after you iron the garment. Another good trick is to raise and lower the shank of your machine every few centimeters to make sure your machine is feeding the fabric from the top and the bottom at the same time.

You can use this technique to make a rolled hem for circle skirts but also any other garment with a circular shape. It is very useful if you decide to make a cloak. Experiment and practice and you will get perfect hems in no time.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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There isn’t much mistery in making a bustle skirt. If you feel brave you can wing it, but if you want to avoid all the Maths and taking all those body measurements just download my burlesque bustle skirt pattern. It comes with all the instructions and printable patterns.

Cutting the pattern

I began cutting the pieces of my pattern. I cut the pattern to make 3 short tiers, but you have the option to cut more tiers. Instead of pinning the pattern, I used sewing weights to mark it. That way I wouldn’t leave holes on the fabric. I had a perfect piece of satin with a bit of texture that had been sitting on my desk for months. As I only had one meter I decided to cut each piece in two parts (this is only possible if you are using the 3 tier pattern). In order to keep my pattern in one piece I didn’t cut the paper completely. It is much easier to use for next time. The ruffles and the waistband looked like the picture below.

Adding the ruffles and trim

I started my skirt attaching lace to the bottom part of my pieces. This step is optional but I think it made the skirt cuter. I first sew the trim right faces together with my overlocker and then I overstitched to make sure it sat in place. Of course you can ruffle the trim to add extra volume and flufiness.

The next step consisted on making ruffle. There are many ways of making ruffles and you don’t need any fancy tools to make them. I decided to use my ruffler foot as I believe it is one of the quickest and neatest ways to gather fabric.

Assembling the pieces

Bustle skirts usually have many layers. If you were to put all your ruffles together they would be too bulky at the top. However, you can use another piece of fabric and attach the ruffles to it in layers. You could choose a different material for this part as it will only be seen on the inside.

Attaching the waistband

The last part of the ruffle skirt was the waistband. First I ironed some interfacing on the waistband. Then I folded it in half. Later I attached the waistband right sides together to my skirt. Finally, I folded the piece and hand sew the it in place. You can overstitch it instead but I kind of enjoy hiding the stitches and a bit of handsewing. Once all was in place it looked much better after I ironed it. Once you add ribbons to the side it is done.

As you see, it is very easy to build. I hope you liked the tutorial. And remember, if you want to make this bustle skirt with no fuss get the pattern and forget about the Maths.

If you liked my burlesque bustle skirt tutorial why don’t you try other styles like the pleated skirt or the circle skirt? There is so much more you can do. Also, make sure you check all my patterns for more inspiration!

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The circle skirt is one of the basic skirts you can learn to make, the idea behind this skirt is that it fits your waist perfectly but gets a lot of volume on the hem. You can roughly draw a circle and gather the extra fabric with an elastic to make your skit. But, if you want a perfect skirt that fits your waist you are going to need to do some maths.

Different patterns for your skirt

When you make circle skirts, be ready to do some Maths. Or maybe skip all this talk and just buy my bundle of circle skirts, you can download in the time it tales you to read this article. Anyway, this is how you make a circle skirt.

To make one of these skirts you will need to know two measurements, the desired length of your skirt and the radius of your circle to fit your waist. To calculate the radius for your pattern you can use these simple rules. They are different depending on the fullness of your skirt.

• 1/2 Circle Radius = (Waist in cm – 4) ÷ 3
• 3/4 Circle Radius = (Waist in cm – 4) ÷ 4.5
• Full circle Radius = (Waist in cm – 4) ÷ 6

To make it easy I made a graphic with the different types of skirts and how they look. You only need to make the little maths to work out the circumference of your waist. The length would be as desired, usually around 45 to 55 cm. Remember that you can also make a double circle skirt and gather it to make it look bigger and fuller.

And after your skirt is done, don’t forget to add your finishing touches. Are you going to make a rolled hem? Or maybe you prefer to add some bias tape to it? Don’t forget to sew your waist band correctly. With these short formulas and some extra details you can make your skirt unique!

How to sew a circle skirt

Do you need some extra help? This is how you sew your skirt. I made a videotutorial explaining all the steps you need to follow. It should be fairly easy to follow.

Making a circle skirt from scratch is great, however, you may want someone to do all the Maths for you. Don’t worry, you can download the circle skirt bundle from my shop and get a 10% discount using the code ALICECOS. Quick, easy, and no Maths to deal with. No fighting with huge papers on the floor either!

I hope you found this tutorial useful. Remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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First you need to know what this is, a godet is basically a piece of fabric with a triangular shape (actually a sector of a circle) you insert it in your garment to add flare and volume. You usually find it on skirts or dresses.

Lo primero que necesitáis saber es qué es un godet, es básicamente un triángulo de tela (un sector de un círculo para ser exactos) que se inserta en una prend para darle más vuelo y volumen. Normalmente lo encuentras en faldas y vestidos.

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How to make it

There are different kinds of pleats but the rule in all of them is to fold your fabric, iron it and sew it in place. On average, you will need a rectangle twice the length of your hips to do the skirt or twice your waist if it is a high skirt. You should divide this length between the number of pleats or the approximate length you want them to be. Don’t forget to add a couple of centimeters for the seam allowance. You can also decide to finish the edge with bias tape instead for a different look.

Before you start make sure to mark your pleats with tailor’s chalk so all of your pleats are even. For a 12-14 pleats skirt I usually make each fold about 6 cm apart, but this will depend on your skirt. For my example, each fold is half the width of the pleat. If you decide to make wider folds you will need to add more fabric accordingly.

A good trick is to fold your fabric with the help of a long ruler. This makes sure your folds are straight. I also recommend you to bast them in place once they are done. That way, you will get a perfect finish when you iron it with vapour one last time. And they will stay crisp until you need to wear it.

Once all your pleats are in place, don’t forget to add a waist band to your skirt. You can do this by folding a strip of fabric to the top of the skirt and hiding the excess on the inside of the garment. You will need a strip of interlining if you want to sew a perfect waistband. Then you can finish your skirt sewing a zipper and or adding closures to it.

There are many types of pleats depending on the way you fold your fabric. The most common are the side pleats and the box pleat. The effect will also vary depending on the width of your pleats. Also, a skirt that starts on the real waist may need further adjustments such us slightly diagonal pleats in order to allow for the difference between your waist and your hips. Try overstitching the top section of your pleated skirt for a different tighter version. Some examples of pleated skirts are my Sailor V cosplay or my Emilia cosplay.

I hope you found this tutorial useful. If you feel like it, remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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Hay muchos tipos de faldas. Dependiendo de la manera en que cortéis vuestra falda va a afectar a su apariencia de manera muy diferente

Straight skirt vs Circular skirt

Below you can see that when you use a rectangle of fabric to make your skirt the folds are on top and the bottom has almost no folds . On the contrary, when you do a circular skirt you get no folds on top but many folds at the bottom.

Abajo podéis ver que cuando usáis un rectángulo de tela para hacer vuestra falda los pliegues están en la parte superior y no hay a penas pliegues en la inferior . Por el contrario, cuando hacéis una falda circular no hay pliegues en la parte superior pero hay muchos en la inferior.

Here you have a basic tutorial on how to make both skirts, they are both really easy to make. I remind you that the radius of your skirt would be the contour of your waist divided between 2∏ . If you want a low waist skirt you measure your hip instead.

Aquí os dejo un tutorial basico para hacer ambas faldas, son ambas muy fáciles de hacer. Os recuerdo que el radio de vuestra falda sería el contorno de vuestra cintura dividida entre 2∏ . Si queréis que vaya a la cadera medid esta en vez de la cintura.

As you can see you can use a pencil attached to a thread to trace the circular skirt. Remember to add some seam allowance for the top and bottom of your skirts. Finally, don’t forget to roll the hem of your circular skirt

Como podéis ver podéis usar un lápiz atado a un hilo para dibujar la falda circular. Recuerda dejar espacio para las costuras y para la parte superior e inferior de tu falda. Finalmente, no os olvidéis de hacer el dobladillo de vuestra falda circular

More circular skirt ideas

Also, here you have some more ideas for your circular skirts. You don’t always need a circle in order to make a skirt. Check how to make a circular skirt

Además, aquí os dejo algunas ideas más para hacer faldas circulares. No siempre es necesario dibujar un circulo completo para hacer una falda. Echad un vistazo a como hacer una falda circular

Do you want to skip the Maths? You can now download my collection of circle skirts. It includes a quarter of a circle, a half circle, a 3/4 circle, a full circle and a double circle skirt. That’s a lot of skirts! Printer friendly for A4/Letter size. With different sizes, full instructions and step by step drawings.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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