Can you really improve your sewing productivity?

Of course you can, there is thousands of seamstress that have to create many new garments daily. How come you cannot finish just that one piece in 5 months? Leaving aside practice and experience, there are many reasons why you may not be able to be as productive as you want. These are just some ways in which you can be more productive. If you ask me, I can give you one single word that summarizes it all: focus.

1. Find a cozy spot

First things first, find youself a nice spot and keep it. Ideally you want to have your own sewing space. If you have a spare room, you can use it as your basecamp, I recently refurbished my sewing room. Now, I know many people won’t have the luxury of a permanent sewing spot. That’s not a problem. Just make sure your machine and utensils are readily available and easy to set up whenever you need them, let’s say in a cupboard by the table so you can easily access them whenever you are ready to start.

2. Start with a clean slate

Keep it clean and keep it tidy. Personally, I have a little ritual before I focus and start sewing. First of all, I make sure everthing is in the right place. I tidy up the room and I clean and return any tools to their original places (if I didn’t during the last session). This actually puts me in a good mood. Because being comfortable is very important

Tidying your room is a great practice and it will actually help you during your sewing sessions. No more looking for the scissors under a pile of scrap fabric or . Just get ready to start sewing.

3. No interruptions allowed

Sewing time is me time and I want absolutely no interruptions. The one thing that distracts me the most is my phone or my computer. Getting all those annoying notifications while you are sewing is very distracting. Turn off your devices. Don’t worry, you do not need them. If the house is on fire you will know. Furthermore, make sure you make it very clear that you are busy and you are not expecting any visits. A keep out sign on the door is tempting, but if you are struggling, try to sew when you know you won’t be interrupted, perhaps after you have put the kids to bed (or fed the cats). And make sure you have everything else done in advance. Dinner is sorted, washing up done and all your homework finished before hand. Nothing worse than having that one thing to do stuck in your mind.

4. Set yourself a goal

I know that mostly you want to sew just for fun, me too! Deadlines can make you feel nervous or anxious, we don’t want that. However, having a goal will also make you have a purpose. And that purpose may motivate you to keep going. For example, you may want to finish your new dress for your sister’s party, or maybe you are going to a convention and you need to dress up. Is Halloween around the corner? If you don’t really have a goal (let’s face it, last year hasn’t been known for the abundance of parties) make up one. Let’s say, I would like to have a new dress by the end of the month. If you don’t get it done on time, it is not the end of the world, but knowing that you have a purpose may give you that little push that you need,

5. Materials assemble

There is nothing that annoys me more than starting a project and notice that I have forgotten to buy matching thread, the lining or any other silly thing. Not only is this annoying, but it is going to make you waste time. You will have to leave your sewing garment half way through just to go and buy that one piece you are missing (or wait for the delivery truck), just to realise a day later that you have forgotten something else! I like making a full list of materials on my Cosplay Planner just before I start and I won’t start a project until I have gathered all the necessary materials. No interruptions when you are in the mood.

6. Focus on a piece at a time

When I am sewing a new project, I find very useful focusing on one piece at a time. You dob’t need to finish the whole thing in one go. For example, you could focus on just cutting all the pieces one day, sewing the lining another day and finishing the garment the third day. Getting bored of the same project? No worries, choose something else for today, maybe finish hemming a skirt you left halfway through, or start gathering materials for your next dress. Just remember to go back to your initial project without leaving it unfinished for too long. Otherwise, it will become a UFO (UnFinishedObject) and we really don’t like those cluttering your space.

7. Boost your motivation

The time I am most productive is when I am motivated. You know I make cosplays , so watching a series or playing a game with the characters I want to recreate always makes me want to sew even more. Watching sewing programs like “The Sewing Bee” also gives me a good boost of energy and ideas. What’s most important about motivation is using it wisely. If I have just seen something I really want to make, I don’t stop myself and do something else I don’t want to be doing. Instead, I go straight to the project I really want to do at that exact moment. I find I get much more done if I am really motivated.

8. Switch before you get burnt out

Some projects take just too long. Sometimes it is as if they were cursed! If you feel like you can’t continue with something you are doing, just take a break. If your mindset is not the right one you will start commiting mistakes and that’s the last thing you want.Taking a short break from those projects is not a bad idea. Maybe you can take a day off and watch telly, it is absolutely fine. Just again, don’t let them wait for too long or you will completely lose interest.

9. Don’t overthink it

Personally I am very insecure. Sometimes I spend more time thinking or researching how to sew something than actually giving it a go. I have actually written a million sewing tutorials myself. Truth is, it is not going to work if you don’t even try it! There is always time to fix mistakes or start a new project if the first one didn’t work. Just keep sewing.

10. Let it go…

This is perhaps the most difficult advice to take. There are times in which simply you are not prepared to finish a project. That is absolutely fine. You can instead… let it go. You don’t need to finish something if you are not really enjoying it. Sometimes it was just not meant to be. Don’t be afraid to say I can’t do this (right now) or simply I don’t want to do this anymore. Maybe you lost interest or maybe you just don’t have the abiliy or resources yet. Take the project out of your list, pause it or get rid of it all together. Start with something new that really excites you right now. The time you spent on that project will never be wasted as you keep with you the experience and joy it gave you when you were sewing it.

Just remember, you don’t owe anything to anyone. It does not matter if you are productive or not. You are doing this for yourself. Enjoy the process and have fun with it! And you will see how you will improve with time without noticing it.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Understanding fabric from the inside

Most fabrics are made initially with yarn. The raw materials like cotton, or wool, are stretched and twisted until they create a long thread. This thread called yarn is then weaved or knitted to create the fabric you buy at the shops. Some fabrics like felt are made by pressing fibers so most of these terms wont apply to them.

Warp and weft

The warp is the name given to the set of yarns or thread stretched in place on a loom before the weft is introduced during the weaving process.

The yarn or thread that crisscrosses the warp on woven fabrics is called weft. Depending on how it is woven, it can create simple or complex patterns.

Selvages

Selvage is the name given to the border of your fabric. It is woven tighter on the sides so the fabric doesn’t unravel. You will notice the sides of your fabric are slightly thicker than the rest and there are little holes on it. You usually discard this part when you are sewing so keep in mind that 5-10 cm of your width will not be usable.

In some selvages, specially printed cotton, you will find useful information about the fabric, like the name of the designer, company who made it or if it is copyrighted.

The right side and the wrong side

On sewing pattern instructions, you can often see the terms right side and wrong side of the fabric. This means you need to distinguish which side will be the nice one that faces outside and which will be hidden with your seams. Although technically there is always a right side or wrong side, it is up to you to decide which side looks better for your project.

The bumpy part with holes on your fabric is the wrong side and should face down

If you are not sure of which side is the right one, you can check the little holes on your selvages. These holes appear when the fabric is pinned to the machine which weaves the threads to create the fabric. The bumpy part is the wrong side or bottom of your fabric.

Direction of your fabric

It is very easy to forget that your fabric was created as a very long continous piece of fabric. It actually has a horizontal and a vertical position, as well as a diagonal one.

Grain

Most sewing patterns have the term grain printed on all of the pieces. Usually next to a double headed arrow pointing towards the right direction. We can say the grain is the length of your fabric. If you consider your fabric still on the bolt, the arrow would point towards the bolt and towards the uneven side cut with scissors. On your fabric, the selvage should be at the sides.

Grain is specially important to be considered when your fabric has a pattern or if you are using stretch fabric. Even on 4-way elastic fabrics, the elasticity can be different lengthwise and widewise. It is important to put your fabric in the right position to avoid later problems.

Cross grain

Similar to the grain, if grain is the length of your fabric, cross grain is its width. The cross grain goes from selvage to selvage, same as your weft. Cross grain can also be called crosswise grain and the crosswise runs parallel to the cut edge of your fabric.

In some fabrics, it is possible to place your patterns on the cross grain instead of your grain, but it is usually not recommended. When you tug at your fabric from the cross grain it will “give” slightly more than when you do from the grain. For example, 2-way stretch fabric is usually elastic from selvage to selvage.

Bias

Every fabric has two biases. The bias is found on the diagonal of your fabric at 45 degrees. When you tug on the bias of the fabric you will notice it stretches. This is great on some occasions, but do be careful not to cut all your pieces on the bias unless the pattern accounts for it or you may end up with a distorted garment.

Cutting on the bias is specially useful to make bias tape. You use bias tape on the edges of your project to give it a neat finish. You can actually make your own bias tape or buy it done to sew it to your garments. Remember that the bias is found at both angles of the fabric.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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What is a centered zipper and when to sew it

You may be wondering, what is a centered zipper and when to use it. A centered zipper is a technique to sew a normal zipper at the center of your fabric. It features an evenly placed stitching line on either side of the opening seamline. You can usually find it at the center front, center back or sleeve and leg openings of a garment.

An advantage of sewing a zipper like this, is that you will have your fabric perfectly lined every time before you insert it. You won’t have to figure out how high or low each side of the zipper needs to be, which is one of the usual problems when inserting a zipper.

5 Easy steps to sew a centered zipper

This is my preferred method to sew a centered zipper. It is quite easy and if you are careful enough following each step you will get great results very easily.

Step 1. Close your seam completely

It may look strange, but the trick to get a perfect centered zipper is to completely close your seam before you insert it. Pin your seam and use a long stitch on your sewing machine to close the gap.

Step 2. Press the seams open

In order to get a crisp finish and perfect centered zipper you want to press your seams open before you go to the next step. Hold your iron on top of your fabric for a few seconds until it lays completely flat.

Step 3. Pin your zipper in place

For this step, you want to pin your zipper exactly to the center of your seam. It is a good idea to baste it as well. This will be much easier if your seams are approximately the same width as the zipper. Your zipper should be facing INWARDS towards the seam and you want to place it on the inside of the garment.

Step 4. Sew the zipper

Using a zipper foot, and starting a few centimeters from the top, sew each side of the ziper, you can even sew across the ziper and turn your fabric as long as you avoid the teeth of the zipper. Otherwise, finish the bottom part by hand.

Step 5. Rip open the seam

Very carefully, use a seam ripper or sharp scissors to open the seam at the front and reveal your zipper. You can remove the threads with tweezers.

Also, make sure to finish the top of the zipper where your zipper foot couldn’t reach. You will need to open the zipper to to this.

Finished!

And it is done. You can pat yourself on the back for a perfect fitted zipper. You can now finish your edges normally. Don’t forget to press all your seams again, being careful not to melt your zipper.

Do you like this dress? Download this pattern and many others in My Etsy Shop. They all come with instructions, printer friendly pages and step by step tutorials. Below some of the lovely photos by Jim Donnelly. Check my tutorial to make a petticoat to get that 50s look!

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Gathering materials

What I love about this fashion is that you can mainly use cottons and polycottons, which are fairly inexpensive, and still look amazing and royal. You are going to need a fair bit of fabric, between 2-3m for a knee-length skirt.

My fabric was very cheap. I bought it from one of my UK online shops favourites called Fabrikate1 and it was a polycotton tartan in pink colours. This rather crisp fabric but yet light would hold the shape very well.

The pattern

I first considered a circle skirt for my cosplay but browsing online I saw a few lolita tiered skirts and changed my mind. In a sense it was supposed to be easier as all the pieces are rectangles.

This skirt has 3 tiers and each tier gets longer progressively. I originally had planned on a skirt with equally long tiers. However, my piece of fabric was too short and I had to change my plan. Pro tip, plan in advance, shop later.

And now for the Maths. Each tier needs to be 2 or 3 times as long as the previous layer. Starting with the top layer which is also gathered. This means, you need to multiply your waist x3 to get tier 1, then again x3 for tier 2 and one more time x2 to get tier 3. Can’t be bothered with Maths? No worries. Let’s make it easy.

I measured my waist and it gave me a total of 72cm. 72×3 = 216cm. Let’s round up to 220cm (round to 2m if you are short of fabric or 2.5m for extra oomph). My fabric was only 200cm long X 115cm wide so I decided to make my bottom layers shorter. I cut my top layer at 21cm, then I cut 3 more pieces which were 16cm wide (that’s the top tier X3) and 6 more pieces which were 6cm wide (top tier X3 X2 = 6 lenghts). I made the waistband with the leftover fabric. These measurements included my seam allowance to get a 40 cm long skirt.

To sum up, get a piece of fabric 2m to 2.5m long and cut 10 stripes. Your first tier will have one length (21cm wide), the second will have 3 (16cm wide) and the third will have 6 (6cm wide). Much easier, right?

Assembling the skirt

Now that you have all the pieces cut let’s join them together. I used a French seam to do so. I sew my pieces wrong sides together then again right sides together. This hides the edges but it is optional. Remember tier 1 is just one piece, tier 2 has 3 parts and tier 3 has 6 parts. You will end up with three very long strips of fabric. You can make the waistband with the leftovers.

Time to gather all those ruffles. I would highly recommend you to get a ruffler foot. You can get it for less than £5 and it will save you a lot of time. Keep in mind your longest piece is at least 12 meters long. Using the ruffler foot I was able to gather and sew the pieces together at the same time. How awesome is that?

Don’t forget to add a zipper and finish the edges. In this particular skirt it is actually a good idea if you do so before you start gathering. I used my serger because it was much quicker and the pattern disguised the thread very well.

Finally, you need to add a waistband. Inserting an elastic band is a possibility too but the waistband looks nicer in my opinion. It is pretty straightforward. Add some interfacing to the fabric. Right sides together with the top of your skirt sew about 1 cm in and fold the fabric on itself hiding the raw edges inside. Top stitch or hand sew the waistband in place. It is basically like adding giant bias tape.

And that’s it for this lolita tiered skirt tutorial, finish it with a cute bow and wear it with a petticoat underneath for extra puffyness. It will look amazing if you wear it with a puffy shirt.

Liked my tutorial? Remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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Make a petticoat step by step

There are many types of petticoats. The number of layers, the finishing of the edges and the general shape of your garment will vastly depend on your project. In this case I will show you how to make the typical petticoat you would wear under a 50s style dress. In this example it will have 4 levels and a base and each layer will have ruffles atached to it.

The first step for your petticoat is to make the base. The base skirt is usually a half circle skirt that you can make with cotton or lining fabric. You can choose to make the skirt for your petticoat exactly with your measurements or slightly bigger so you can just run an elastic through it and forget about the closures. Once you cut your patter you can also mark the position of each layer. I chose to space them every 10cm.

Each tier is just a long rectangle of tulle fabric. Later on we will bunch the fabric to make ruffles. To account for the ruffles you want at least twice the length of each circumference you marked on your skirt. You can ruffle your fabric the old fashion way or you can get a ruffler foot which will save you a lot of time.

The Maths

As I am sure you would love to skip the Maths for this skirt I decided to write up some round numbers for you. The measurements below are for a skirt with a hip circumference of 100cm and a length of 40cm. It will fit easily a size S/M without a closure.

• S/M skirt: Radius 32cm – Length 40cm
• Tier 1: 10 x 400 cm
• Tier 2: 20 x 350 cm
• Tier 3: 30 x 250 cm
• Tier 4: 40 x 200 cm

However, if you decide to venture yourself in the world of Maths you can easily calculate your circunference using the following formula.

• Fabric length = π (3.14) x Radius x 2 (or the length of your ruffle)

Each of the rectangles above also have ruffled fabric attached to it for extra puffyness. You can use trim, ribbon or more tulle. I decided to cut long pieces of tulle. sew them in one long piece and fold them in half. If you want the exact length you just need to double your previous measurements for the tiers (about 35 m total). Don’t forget to add the trim to your base skirt as well!

Final steps

I find it easier to close my skirt after I have attached all the ruffles. But it is possible to close the skirt first and then sew the trims on top. Also, a zig zag stitch is a very neat option to attach each layer. Another alternative is to embellish them sewing ribbon on top of each tier.

Finally, you want to close your petticoat. It is possible to add a zipper at the back and a few snap on buttons if you find it too tight. However, it is just much easier to run an elastic band through the waistband. Just make sure your hips get through the opening. Remember you can use bias tape for the waist if you prefer it.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Remember you can support my blog in many ways, clicking my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or using some of my patterns and cosplay related downloadables! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Rolled hem for circle skirts technique

The reason why hemming a circle skirt may become a tricky task is that the length of your circle at the bottom decreases in concentrical circles as you fold it up. It is almost impossible to iron the hem without getting horrible creases. Very often you have to embed the extra fabric or use bias tape to bind the edges instead. This is the way I do a rolled hem for circle skirts still using my sewing machine and no extra aid.

1. Following the seam, sew a straight line about 5cm away from the border.
2. Fold the seam inwards and sew very close to the border, about 2cm. Your previous stitch should show at the border.
3. Trim the excess very close to the stitches.
4. Fold the border again and topstitch the seam

As you can see, the edge of your circle skirt will be straight and crisp. In some problematic areas, like those on the bias, you may still get a few creases. However, very often they will disappear after you iron the garment. Another good trick is to raise and lower the shank of your machine every few centimeters to make sure your machine is feeding the fabric from the top and the bottom at the same time.

You can use this technique to make a rolled hem for circle skirts but also any other garment with a circular shape. It is very useful if you decide to make a cloak. Experiment and practice and you will get perfect hems in no time.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Quick tip to understand fabric

Fabric terminology can be a bit confusing. Keep in mind that when we name a fabric we often refer to some of its characteristics. The type of fiber used and the type of weave or knit are some of the most common factors to classify them. They can also specify their use, weight or design they feature.

For example, when we talk about cotton poplin, we know the fiber or material is cotton and the type of weave (the way in which fibers interlock) is called poplin. On the other hand, cotton jersey would have cotton as the fiber employed but in this case the fabric would be knitted with a jersey stitch.

Fabrics for cosplay and best ways to use them

This is a list of my favourite types of fabrics, once you get to know your materials you may prefer to use different ones. There are many others that I don’t mention here and I recommend you to visit your local store to test all these fabrics by yourself. Also, I included some alternatives to each fabric that may give you similar results but would probably not be my first choice. The ultimate choice will depend on the project and your preferences. These are my favourite fabrics for cosplay. Click the links in the pictures for more information on how I made them.

1. Poplin for light garments

Cotton poplin is one of the most versatile fabrics you can get for cosplay. With a flat surface, it is very easy to sew and handle and relatively inexpensive. When you think of cotton fabric the fabric that usually comes to mind is probably poplin. This material is tightly woven and it is usually the base for shirts and some skirts and dresses.

As an alternative to cotton you can get polycotton fabrics. These are a blend of cotton and polyester and can be much cheaper. Cotton or polycotton you can usually find them grouped under the name shirting material or sheeting material, the second being of less quality.

An alternative to poplin is linen and linen look fabrics, which have their own type of weave, and usually come from the flax plant. Linen is very light and not as tightly woven as poplin. It gives a more rustic look and works well for medieval and fantasy garments. However, I find it more difficult to handle and tends to fray and warp much more.

2. Twill for a bit of structure

Twill refers to a type of weave with a diagonal pattern in the shape of little arrows. It is a strong fabric, relatively thick and with good drape. The light and medium versions are very easy to sew. It is ideal for jackets, coats and uniforms.

Maybe you have heard of chino, denim or gabardine. These are all different types of twill fabrics. What changes is the thickness, use and the way the materials are handled. You may want to investigate a bit more when you make your next garment as there are many possibilities.

If you need a cozy jacket, coat or cloak tweed may be your fabric. Made with wool, this woven twill fabric is rough, thick and very warm. Be careful as it can be tricky to sew it. Also it can warp while you handle it.

3. Satin to go to a ball

Usually made with silk or polyester, one of the characteristics of satin is that it is shiny on one side and dull on the other. It can be quite inexpensive, however I find cheap, bad quality satin gives a carnavalesque look to cosplay. Satin looks best on dresses and special occasion wear. And on a pinch you can even use the “wrong side” of the fabric to obtain a different texture. Most of the time it is easy to sew but make sure your needle is sharp or you may pull some threads from the fabric.

Similar to satin, the sateen is usually a woven cotton fabric and it tends to be less shiny and less slippery than satin. It makes beautiful dresses with a sturdier structure.

Another alternative to satin if you need a fabric with some shine but with more structure is taffeta (as the fabric I used on Mulan’s coat below). This fabric has a plain-weave and it is very crisp.

4. Chiffon for see through garments

There are many lightweight alternatives but chiffon is my favourite. It is very fine and translucent. It looks great as an overlay on top of other fabrics and it has a lot of movement. However, it is difficult to handle it and it won’t work if you need to create a garment with structure. A slightly thicker and less see through fabric is the georgette.

For a crisp alternative you can use organza. It works beautifully on seethrough bows or poofy translucent sleeves. Also, it tends to be much shinier than chiffon.

For added volume and petticoats, do not forget the tulle, which has a net look to it and is very inexpensive.

5. Velvet for royalty and magic

Velvet is a very royal fabric. I like to use it to create contrast and texture in some of my cosplays. I especially like the blend with Spandex which makes it elastic.

Crushed velvet is the cheaper alternative to velvet. It is however very slippery and more difficult to handle. The edges tend to roll and curl.

Don’t forget you can use velour and fleece to make plush toys. They have a similar soft texture but would probably not work for many garments.

6. Spandex for superheroes

Also called lycra or elastane, it is a broad term that describes fabrics that contain this man-made fiber which is very elastic. 2-way stretch or 4-way stretch, it is usually a plain woven fabric and it is the main material you can find in bodysuits. This fabric is quite difficult to sew but much needed for any superhero cosplay. It is a must if you want to sew a bodysuit.

An easy variation, yet less stretchy fabric, is the neoprene or scuba (see my Sailor Moon bodysuit above), which mixes spandex with other fibers like cotton or polyester. Do not worry, it doesn’t look like the material used for scuba diving suits.

Other stretch fabrics include knits like jersey or ribbed knits. However, I don’t really like these as they unravel very easily and are difficult to sew. They make great materials for t-shirts and jumpers but most of the time it is easier and cheaper to buy these types of garments.

7. Leatherette for the warrior in you

For the animal lovers that don’t want to use real leather, this fabric is the solution. There are many types. I would be careful not to choose the thicker upholstery fabrics as they are extremely difficult to sew and they don’t make good garments.

Suede is also a type of fuzzy leather that you can replace with faux suede. For an even cheaper version you have suedette, but it tends to be flimsier and doesn’t hold its shape by itself.

Again, if you are a defendant of animals remember you can get fake fur, the more expensive deluxe fur is a game changer and does look like the real thing.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the choice of material will depend on your project and your personal preferences. The best way to know which material to use is to go to the fabric shop and touch the different fabrics until you find the one you think will work better. Things like weight or thickness will vary within each group.

Looking for your next project? Browse my patterns and cosplay related downloadables. They come with full instructions and fabric recommendations. Remember you can also support my blog on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you! If you click any of my affiliate links and use my promo codes (ALICECOS) you will help me too!

Let me know if you agree with my choice of materials in the comments or open a discussion on my Social Media on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

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Depending on its composition, your fabric will adapt better to your purposes. Are you looking for a breathable fabric to make sports wear? Or maybe you need a waterproof fabric to make a raincoat? This all depends on the fibres used to create your fabric and that will give it unique characteristics.

The difference between fiber and fabric

Before we start discussing the different types of textile fabrics we must differentiate between fiber and fabric. A fiber or fibre is a natural or synthetic substance that is significantly longer than it is wide. Think of a wool yarn or a thread spool, these are mainly fibers that have been spun to be able to work with them. Fibers are often used in the manufacture of other materials, in our case, fabric. As opposed to fibers, a textile is a flexible material consisting of natural or artificial fibers, such as yarn or thread, intertwined between them. Let’s say the bolt of fabric you find in the store.

To make it simple, fabric is made from yarns and yarns are made from fibers. When we talk about textile fabrics we refer to the filaments used to create them. These filaments can be woven, knitted, matted or bound to create the final product that we buy in the fabric store and with which we create clothes or other items.

Different types of textile fabrics

Depending on how you process the fibers we will obtain different finishes with different properties and characteristics. Some fibers come from animals or plants whereas others come from man-made processes which makes them similar to plastic. They are all fit for different purposes. These are the different types of fabrics that you can find according to the process through which they are obtained.

The two big categories in which fibers divide are natural and man-made fibers. The man-made fabrics further subdivide in synthetic or semi-synthetic fibers depending on the process they undergo to become fibers. Finally, the fiber blend is not a subcategory but the result of a combination between natural and man-made fabrics.

Natural fibers

As you may have guessed, natural fibers are those obtained directly from the natural world. Mostly they are from animal or plant origin and they have been used since prehistoric times. The most common natural fibers are cotton, silk, wool or linen.

Their properties include good water absorbancy, softness and they are also breathable. This makes them ideal for summer clothing. They are usually biodegradable and hypoallergenic, which makes them perfect for sensitive skin. However, they may deteriorate over time and some like cotton may shrink.

Synthetic fibers

As oposed to natural fibers, synthetic fibers are man-made produced. In order to obtain these fabrics the materials need to go through several processes before they achieve the desired outcome. These fibers are entirely manufactured, usually using petrochemicals and mixing components including petroleum, coal, limestone and water. The most used are polyester, acrylic or nylon.

Recently, synthetic fabrics have become the most used. Some of their characteristics are their better durability and cheaper manufacturing. Furthermore, they can be waterproof, durable and long lasting, as well as resistant to stretching. They are also resistant to shrinking and wrinkling and easy to care for as they retain their shape and dry quickly. However, they are usually non-breathing fabrics an the toxins used to produce them can cause irritation or become uncomfortable to skin.

Semi-synthetic fibers

Some people include these fibers in the synthetic fiber category but the process they undercome is different from purely synthetic fibers. Semi-synthetic fibers come from natural raw materials. These are modified by chemical processes and become fibers. Often , the source material comes from plants and wood. The wood gets crushed and broken into a pulp and later on shaped into threads. Semi-synthetic fibers include rayon, also known as viscose, modal, bamboo or seacell, which comes from seweed.

Semi-synthetic fabrics like rayon are soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent, but they do not insulate body heat. They are ideal for use in hot and humid climates. They can imitate natural fabric but sometimesy they may feel cool and also almost slimy to the touch.

Fiber blends

Finally, you can also find fabrics that combine the best of two worlds. When you combine natural and synthetic fibers you can create a fabric that gets the unique qualities of each world. The most common combinations are cotton and polyester, also called polycotton, cotton and lycra or acrylic and wool.

For example, you can use polycotton for t-shirts. It makes them easy to care and crease resistant. Adding lycra to cotton makes it stretchy and comfortablen and helps obtain a better fit. Wool can be combined with acrylic to create warm items which are less expensive and less itchy.

Conclusion

All types of fabrics have their pros and their cons. Natural fabrics like cotton are comortable and breathable, which makes them great for summer. However, they may shrink and they don’t stretch. Synthetic fabrics are usually wrinkle resistant, which makes them easier to care for, but won’t be as breathable and can create allergic reactions. Ultimately, your choice of fabric will depend on your purpose and personal opinion as much as your project. Don’t forget to keep your fabric tidy and remember to use your fabric before it gets spoiled.

I hope you liked this article and learnt a bit more about fabric. If you like my work you may consider supporting me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more content and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and related downloadables make sure to check my collection. Happy sewing!

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I had heard about this product called ban rol on forums and blogs. It was the perfect thing to make your hems perfect. You could sew your fabric to it and you would miracously get a perfect edge. I searched for it but I couldn’t find it anywhere on physical stores nor online. Noone knew what it was. That’s when I realised I had seen that type of fabric before.

When I was little I liked crosstitching, my mum used to get me a premade canvas with a printed drawing and I only had to fill the holes of this very stiff canvas that was almost like paper. She would also get this material in rolls to make even bigger designs. It was great, because you could actually sew on top of another fabric and take away the threads one by one so you would never know you had used a guide to begin with. That is what gave me the idea.

Steps to sew a narrow baby hem

To follow this tutorial you will need to buy needlework fabric. It is a very stiff canvas used for crosstitch. I am sure you can find it in rolls and it is a good idea to get several meters if available. I was testing this method and I only bought about half a meter. It was easy enough to find it online and it wasn’t expensive. I would say this tutorial works very well with sheer fabric and flimsy fabrics like organza, crepe or georgette.

1. Prepare your fabric

Go ahead and trim one the edges of your fabrics to make sure your border is completely straight. Make sure to guide yourself with one of the threads to make your cut perfectly straight. Do the same with your chosen fabric where you will be making your hem.

2. Remove some threads

Remove several threads from the edge of your fabric. The number of threads will depend on the width you want for your hem. I decided to remove a total of three threads, which created a very tiny hem but it was still easy enough to position the fabric under your presser foot.

3. Position your fabric

As it woudl have been very difficult to work with the full piece of canvas I decided to cut strips. If you manage to find ribbon for crosstitching with these characteristics, like the ban rol mentioned above, you could skip this step. Once I had my strips, I pinned my needlework fabric to the fabric i wanted to use. It is very important to pin it to the right side of the fabric. Also, if you are an experienced sewer you can easily align both fabrics as you sew them together without the pins.

4. Sew them together

The next step consisted on sewing our stiff canvas to our flimsy fabric. Place the needle as close to the vertical threads as you can but making sure you never stitch those. You will be sewing only along the horizontal threads of your stiff fabric. If your fabric frails a lot, place your canvas half an inch away from the edge and trim it later. Also, if you run out of canvas you can always make more strips and place them inmediately after the previous one.

5. Turn the hem

It is time to turn your hem. Once you have sewn the entire edge, you want to turn your canvas inwards twice. You need to make sure your canvas is now completely towards the back of your fabric. It should look like the pictures below.

6. Top-stitch your hem

This is how the back of your fabric should look now. You can go ahead and pin it in place or as before, if you are experienced without pins. Go ahead and overstitch the border as you would do with a normal hem. As this hem is very narrow you can stitch towards the middle of it or further away from the edge, if you prefer.

7. Remove the canvas

Finally, gently pull your canvas away. If you sew it well it should easily glide out. Every so often you may get a stubborn thread stuck to your fabric, just hold your fabric firmly and pull carefully. A longer stitch will make this task easier for you. And if your fabric allows it, don’t forget to iron the edge for a perfect finish on your narrow baby hem. And do remember to check the temperature and make sure that your iron is clean.

If you are struggling to find the perfect fabric for your project make sure you read where to buy fabric for cosplay and where to buy frabric in the UK. Also, for a different touch to your garments you may also want to sew bias tape to the edge instead.

Have you got any other amazing tricks to share? Let me know in the comments and share this tutorial with someone who may need it. And if you are stuck for new ideas to sew, make sure you check my pattern collection. Also, if you liked this tutorial and want to give you support to keep me going consider supporting me on Ko-fi, no subscription needed!

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My fabric cupboard is full of what ifs, maybe this will work and just in cases. Right next to this is so pretty and it was so cheap that I couldn’t help it! Today I am going to convince you to start using the fabric you already own instead of buying more stuff.

Reasons why you should be sewing that fabric

Because I know you need that little extra push to grab your sewing machine and start sewing that fabric. These are my 5 dangers and 2 reasons to start sewing it:

1. It will get creased

Lame excuse, I know, but it is true! When you buy new fabric it comes in impecable rolls, all crisp and beautiful. Then, you bring it home folded in a bag and maybe you decide to store your fabric properly, which is the right choice. However, more often than not it stays in the bag and gets forgotten in a corner until you decide to use it.

Furthermore, I have some special fabrics with pleather or with glitter. Some of these fabrics shouldn’t be creased, ever. Once they get a crease it will never come off or it will damage the fabric! That is a waste of money and you don’t want it.

2. It takes too much space

I don’t know about you but I am always complaining about space. No wonder, I have a total of 3 cupboards full of fabric! Like me, you could be using that space to store other things. Your house doesn’t need to look like a shop. Use the space for something else.

I have recently bought a lot of units from Ikea to store all my sewing supplies and fabrics and I can’t wait to put it all together! They are great if you want to organize all your fabric.

3. It can get stained or damaged

We said before that your fabric can be damaged with something as simple as a crease. I do store some of my fabric in an open cupboard partially shaded but I am full aware that I should keep it behind a door to keep it safe of dust and dirt. It is so easy to stain a fabric just with dirty hands or because of an accident. If you have children around the task is even more difficult!

More often than I would have liked I have found some fabric that I bought years before stained or partially damaged. Maybe a bug got to it, or it was under direct sun that changed the colour of the fabric. You need to be specially careful with pleather and upholstery fabric as it literally desintegrates with time. Also, white fabric tends to become yellow after a while. The longer you store it, the higher the risk.

4. It will become out of fashion

Believe it or not, fabric can become unfashionable. Like everything else, fabric is seasonal and every few months a new collection is released. A print that was fashionable and chic last month can look horrendous in just a few weeks. Not to say, that quality of fabric prints is always improving and standards of what is a good print can vary with time.

I have some old fabric my mother bought years and years ago. Really. I don’t know what she was thinking. I would never ever wear something made with those atrocious prints. Eek.

5. You may not find it again if you run out

Remember what I said about fashionable fabric? This is a direct consequence of it. There is nothing worse than comitting on a garment just to find out that you didn’t buy enough materials. Even when you think it will be easy because your fabric is rather common, noone can guarantee the hue and finish of the fabric will be exactly the same unless you get the piece from exactly the same roll. Do not risk it, or at least be sure you have some extra centimeters if you are not going to finish your project any time soon.

6. It will give you an accomplished feeling

There isn’t a better feeling than an accomplished task. It is hard to get there but it makes you feel so good inside. It feels amazing when someone compliments you and you can say, I did this. Put your self-esteem up and start finishing those great projects that you have in mind. I’m sure there is a lot in your head and there is no time to spare!

7. It gives you a great excuse to buy more fabric

Very often I stop myself from buying new fabric just thinking of how much fabric I already own and how little space I have left. Don’t feel guilty any more. Reduce your stash of fabric to a reasonable amount and you will never ever feel guilty again. At least not until you buy another batch of 20 meters of fabric and you start all over again of course. Oh my…

Has your fabric stash decreased now? Are you finishing all your projects? Don’t worry I can tell you where to buy fabric in the UK and maybe you can buy fabric for cosplay while you are browsing. Let me know in the comments what you are sewing with those piles of fabric! And if you run out of projects make sure to check my patterns in my Etsy shop. Happy sewing!

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