Can you really improve your sewing productivity?

Of course you can, there is thousands of seamstress that have to create many new garments daily. How come you cannot finish just that one piece in 5 months? Leaving aside practice and experience, there are many reasons why you may not be able to be as productive as you want. These are just some ways in which you can be more productive. If you ask me, I can give you one single word that summarizes it all: focus.

1. Find a cozy spot

First things first, find youself a nice spot and keep it. Ideally you want to have your own sewing space. If you have a spare room, you can use it as your basecamp, I recently refurbished my sewing room. Now, I know many people won’t have the luxury of a permanent sewing spot. That’s not a problem. Just make sure your machine and utensils are readily available and easy to set up whenever you need them, let’s say in a cupboard by the table so you can easily access them whenever you are ready to start.

2. Start with a clean slate

Keep it clean and keep it tidy. Personally, I have a little ritual before I focus and start sewing. First of all, I make sure everthing is in the right place. I tidy up the room and I clean and return any tools to their original places (if I didn’t during the last session). This actually puts me in a good mood. Because being comfortable is very important

Tidying your room is a great practice and it will actually help you during your sewing sessions. No more looking for the scissors under a pile of scrap fabric or . Just get ready to start sewing.

3. No interruptions allowed

Sewing time is me time and I want absolutely no interruptions. The one thing that distracts me the most is my phone or my computer. Getting all those annoying notifications while you are sewing is very distracting. Turn off your devices. Don’t worry, you do not need them. If the house is on fire you will know. Furthermore, make sure you make it very clear that you are busy and you are not expecting any visits. A keep out sign on the door is tempting, but if you are struggling, try to sew when you know you won’t be interrupted, perhaps after you have put the kids to bed (or fed the cats). And make sure you have everything else done in advance. Dinner is sorted, washing up done and all your homework finished before hand. Nothing worse than having that one thing to do stuck in your mind.

4. Set yourself a goal

I know that mostly you want to sew just for fun, me too! Deadlines can make you feel nervous or anxious, we don’t want that. However, having a goal will also make you have a purpose. And that purpose may motivate you to keep going. For example, you may want to finish your new dress for your sister’s party, or maybe you are going to a convention and you need to dress up. Is Halloween around the corner? If you don’t really have a goal (let’s face it, last year hasn’t been known for the abundance of parties) make up one. Let’s say, I would like to have a new dress by the end of the month. If you don’t get it done on time, it is not the end of the world, but knowing that you have a purpose may give you that little push that you need,

5. Materials assemble

There is nothing that annoys me more than starting a project and notice that I have forgotten to buy matching thread, the lining or any other silly thing. Not only is this annoying, but it is going to make you waste time. You will have to leave your sewing garment half way through just to go and buy that one piece you are missing (or wait for the delivery truck), just to realise a day later that you have forgotten something else! I like making a full list of materials on my Cosplay Planner just before I start and I won’t start a project until I have gathered all the necessary materials. No interruptions when you are in the mood.

6. Focus on a piece at a time

When I am sewing a new project, I find very useful focusing on one piece at a time. You dob’t need to finish the whole thing in one go. For example, you could focus on just cutting all the pieces one day, sewing the lining another day and finishing the garment the third day. Getting bored of the same project? No worries, choose something else for today, maybe finish hemming a skirt you left halfway through, or start gathering materials for your next dress. Just remember to go back to your initial project without leaving it unfinished for too long. Otherwise, it will become a UFO (UnFinishedObject) and we really don’t like those cluttering your space.

7. Boost your motivation

The time I am most productive is when I am motivated. You know I make cosplays , so watching a series or playing a game with the characters I want to recreate always makes me want to sew even more. Watching sewing programs like “The Sewing Bee” also gives me a good boost of energy and ideas. What’s most important about motivation is using it wisely. If I have just seen something I really want to make, I don’t stop myself and do something else I don’t want to be doing. Instead, I go straight to the project I really want to do at that exact moment. I find I get much more done if I am really motivated.

8. Switch before you get burnt out

Some projects take just too long. Sometimes it is as if they were cursed! If you feel like you can’t continue with something you are doing, just take a break. If your mindset is not the right one you will start commiting mistakes and that’s the last thing you want.Taking a short break from those projects is not a bad idea. Maybe you can take a day off and watch telly, it is absolutely fine. Just again, don’t let them wait for too long or you will completely lose interest.

9. Don’t overthink it

Personally I am very insecure. Sometimes I spend more time thinking or researching how to sew something than actually giving it a go. I have actually written a million sewing tutorials myself. Truth is, it is not going to work if you don’t even try it! There is always time to fix mistakes or start a new project if the first one didn’t work. Just keep sewing.

10. Let it go…

This is perhaps the most difficult advice to take. There are times in which simply you are not prepared to finish a project. That is absolutely fine. You can instead… let it go. You don’t need to finish something if you are not really enjoying it. Sometimes it was just not meant to be. Don’t be afraid to say I can’t do this (right now) or simply I don’t want to do this anymore. Maybe you lost interest or maybe you just don’t have the abiliy or resources yet. Take the project out of your list, pause it or get rid of it all together. Start with something new that really excites you right now. The time you spent on that project will never be wasted as you keep with you the experience and joy it gave you when you were sewing it.

Just remember, you don’t owe anything to anyone. It does not matter if you are productive or not. You are doing this for yourself. Enjoy the process and have fun with it! And you will see how you will improve with time without noticing it.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Get a perfect canvas

Although I try, I don’t always have time for daily make up routines. But some kind of routine is indeed crucial if you want your make up to stick and look good on you. At least I try to do my best a week in advance when I know I am going to have a photoshoot. I don’t have a miraculous solution that will work in just an hour, but you can definetely improve your skin in very little time following some simple steps.

1. Start from the inside

Yes, I am about to give you a pep talk about eating healthy and drinking water. It may seem a bit silly if we are talking about make up, but if you want a perfect skin you should start by eating as healthy as you can and drinking lots of water. Almost three liters of water is the recommended intake amount, but let’s be honest, that’s nearly impossible, you will be as good with just a little bit less.

Personally, I have a skin condition called rosacea. This means I have to be extra careful if i don’t want my skin to flare up. I’m prone to get extremely red cheeks, pimples and dry skin. To minimise all this, the days before a shoot I avoid spicy food, greasy food and alcohol and in general anything that could trigger a reaction. Save the chocolate for after the show too.

2. Exfoliate every inch

Have you ever applied your make up just to notice your skin has started to flake? Worse effect ever! And extremely annoying. You want to get rid of all the dead cells on top of your skin that are just hiding the beauty below. To do this, you can scrub your face with an exfoliating gel. Use a horsehair mitt or a firm sponge for your body while you are showering to get rid of all that dead skin that’s causing you problems. Remember not to overdo it and be gentle. In general, I exfoliate no more than two or three times a week.

Furthermore, you can use black head strips or exfoliating masks for a deep clean as well. And don’t forget the lips! If they feel too dry and flakey rub them with a mixture of honey and sugar to get rid of the dead skin and use a lip balm afterwards to keep them hydrated.

3. Get rid of all the fluff

Do not forget to get rid of those little hairs that are on your way. I have naturally bushy eyebrows and I am sure I could pull off the Frida Callho look any time if I wanted to. But I don’t want to. I find it much easier to apply make up after I have trimmed and plucked any rebel hairs. This is even more true when I have to colour my eyebrows. I will also wax or shave any unwanted hair, which makes my skin feel much softer.

4. A deep cleanse

I always use micellar water to clean any daily rests of make up. Even if you do not wear make up it helps cleaning your skin after a long day outside. Don’t forget to use toner afterwards! Washing your face with lukewarm water and a gentle gel cleanser is always a good habit too.

The day before a shoot I go a step further and have a bath. A long warm shower will do the trick as well. Not only it will clean you, it will also help you relax. If I have time in the morning before the photoshoot I may have a shower too, as it is refreshing and relaxing.

My top picks

5. Hydration is key

I already suggested drinking lots of water. Now it is time to boost that moisture inside your skin. I don’t go crazy with expensive creams. I simply use a day cream in the morning and a night cream just before I go to bed. For your body you can use a shower cream or baby oil after you shower. Body lotions are an option too. A healthy skin will show and will make you feel comfortable. The day before the shoot I use a hydrating face mask too.

Just before I apply my make up I use a Vitamin-C serum that makes my skin glow and disguises any little marks. It makes your skin feel super soft. You can use moisturiser instead, those with Q10 will hide any little wrinkles if you are already getting some.

My top picks

6. Just relax…

It is very easy to overlook this step, but it is indeed very important. Stress levels can cause ugly reactions on your skin. Before a photoshoot I make sure I have everything under control. I make a list with all the things I will need and I gather them all if possible. As I often shoot at home in my own homemade studio, I make sure everything is ready in advance.

All this is to make sure I can reduce my stress levels and to know I have everything under control. The day before a shoot I make sure I have plenty of rest and depending on the time I will have a bath or a long shower. This helps me keep my mind blank and not only helps my skin but also my attitude towards the shoot.

7. Nobody is perfect

Did you follow all the tricks above and your skin isn’t flawless yet? Don’t worry, nobody is perfect. The truth is, no matter how hard you try, it is impossible to get a perfect canvas. Actually, you have probably been fooled. All those perfect photos of models and influencers on your social media are actually all a lie. This is because all the photos you see on social media have been edited beforehand.

Having a good skin routine is vey important to get good photos and also to have a healthy skin. However, don’t be obsessed wit it, and remember that any little imperfections can easily be hidden with just a bit of post-processing on your image or a good selfie filter. Either way, never forget that you are beautiful no matter what.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Understanding fabric from the inside

Most fabrics are made initially with yarn. The raw materials like cotton, or wool, are stretched and twisted until they create a long thread. This thread called yarn is then weaved or knitted to create the fabric you buy at the shops. Some fabrics like felt are made by pressing fibers so most of these terms wont apply to them.

Warp and weft

The warp is the name given to the set of yarns or thread stretched in place on a loom before the weft is introduced during the weaving process.

The yarn or thread that crisscrosses the warp on woven fabrics is called weft. Depending on how it is woven, it can create simple or complex patterns.

Selvages

Selvage is the name given to the border of your fabric. It is woven tighter on the sides so the fabric doesn’t unravel. You will notice the sides of your fabric are slightly thicker than the rest and there are little holes on it. You usually discard this part when you are sewing so keep in mind that 5-10 cm of your width will not be usable.

In some selvages, specially printed cotton, you will find useful information about the fabric, like the name of the designer, company who made it or if it is copyrighted.

The right side and the wrong side

On sewing pattern instructions, you can often see the terms right side and wrong side of the fabric. This means you need to distinguish which side will be the nice one that faces outside and which will be hidden with your seams. Although technically there is always a right side or wrong side, it is up to you to decide which side looks better for your project.

The bumpy part with holes on your fabric is the wrong side and should face down

If you are not sure of which side is the right one, you can check the little holes on your selvages. These holes appear when the fabric is pinned to the machine which weaves the threads to create the fabric. The bumpy part is the wrong side or bottom of your fabric.

Direction of your fabric

It is very easy to forget that your fabric was created as a very long continous piece of fabric. It actually has a horizontal and a vertical position, as well as a diagonal one.

Grain

Most sewing patterns have the term grain printed on all of the pieces. Usually next to a double headed arrow pointing towards the right direction. We can say the grain is the length of your fabric. If you consider your fabric still on the bolt, the arrow would point towards the bolt and towards the uneven side cut with scissors. On your fabric, the selvage should be at the sides.

Grain is specially important to be considered when your fabric has a pattern or if you are using stretch fabric. Even on 4-way elastic fabrics, the elasticity can be different lengthwise and widewise. It is important to put your fabric in the right position to avoid later problems.

Cross grain

Similar to the grain, if grain is the length of your fabric, cross grain is its width. The cross grain goes from selvage to selvage, same as your weft. Cross grain can also be called crosswise grain and the crosswise runs parallel to the cut edge of your fabric.

In some fabrics, it is possible to place your patterns on the cross grain instead of your grain, but it is usually not recommended. When you tug at your fabric from the cross grain it will “give” slightly more than when you do from the grain. For example, 2-way stretch fabric is usually elastic from selvage to selvage.

Bias

Every fabric has two biases. The bias is found on the diagonal of your fabric at 45 degrees. When you tug on the bias of the fabric you will notice it stretches. This is great on some occasions, but do be careful not to cut all your pieces on the bias unless the pattern accounts for it or you may end up with a distorted garment.

Cutting on the bias is specially useful to make bias tape. You use bias tape on the edges of your project to give it a neat finish. You can actually make your own bias tape or buy it done to sew it to your garments. Remember that the bias is found at both angles of the fabric.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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What is a centered zipper and when to sew it

You may be wondering, what is a centered zipper and when to use it. A centered zipper is a technique to sew a normal zipper at the center of your fabric. It features an evenly placed stitching line on either side of the opening seamline. You can usually find it at the center front, center back or sleeve and leg openings of a garment.

An advantage of sewing a zipper like this, is that you will have your fabric perfectly lined every time before you insert it. You won’t have to figure out how high or low each side of the zipper needs to be, which is one of the usual problems when inserting a zipper.

5 Easy steps to sew a centered zipper

This is my preferred method to sew a centered zipper. It is quite easy and if you are careful enough following each step you will get great results very easily.

Step 1. Close your seam completely

It may look strange, but the trick to get a perfect centered zipper is to completely close your seam before you insert it. Pin your seam and use a long stitch on your sewing machine to close the gap.

Step 2. Press the seams open

In order to get a crisp finish and perfect centered zipper you want to press your seams open before you go to the next step. Hold your iron on top of your fabric for a few seconds until it lays completely flat.

Step 3. Pin your zipper in place

For this step, you want to pin your zipper exactly to the center of your seam. It is a good idea to baste it as well. This will be much easier if your seams are approximately the same width as the zipper. Your zipper should be facing INWARDS towards the seam and you want to place it on the inside of the garment.

Step 4. Sew the zipper

Using a zipper foot, and starting a few centimeters from the top, sew each side of the ziper, you can even sew across the ziper and turn your fabric as long as you avoid the teeth of the zipper. Otherwise, finish the bottom part by hand.

Step 5. Rip open the seam

Very carefully, use a seam ripper or sharp scissors to open the seam at the front and reveal your zipper. You can remove the threads with tweezers.

Also, make sure to finish the top of the zipper where your zipper foot couldn’t reach. You will need to open the zipper to to this.

Finished!

And it is done. You can pat yourself on the back for a perfect fitted zipper. You can now finish your edges normally. Don’t forget to press all your seams again, being careful not to melt your zipper.

Do you like this dress? Download this pattern and many others in My Etsy Shop. They all come with instructions, printer friendly pages and step by step tutorials. Below some of the lovely photos by Jim Donnelly. Check my tutorial to make a petticoat to get that 50s look!

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

The post How to sew a centered zipper in 5 easy steps appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Gathering materials

What I love about this fashion is that you can mainly use cottons and polycottons, which are fairly inexpensive, and still look amazing and royal. You are going to need a fair bit of fabric, between 2-3m for a knee-length skirt.

My fabric was very cheap. I bought it from one of my UK online shops favourites called Fabrikate1 and it was a polycotton tartan in pink colours. This rather crisp fabric but yet light would hold the shape very well.

The pattern

I first considered a circle skirt for my cosplay but browsing online I saw a few lolita tiered skirts and changed my mind. In a sense it was supposed to be easier as all the pieces are rectangles.

This skirt has 3 tiers and each tier gets longer progressively. I originally had planned on a skirt with equally long tiers. However, my piece of fabric was too short and I had to change my plan. Pro tip, plan in advance, shop later.

And now for the Maths. Each tier needs to be 2 or 3 times as long as the previous layer. Starting with the top layer which is also gathered. This means, you need to multiply your waist x3 to get tier 1, then again x3 for tier 2 and one more time x2 to get tier 3. Can’t be bothered with Maths? No worries. Let’s make it easy.

I measured my waist and it gave me a total of 72cm. 72×3 = 216cm. Let’s round up to 220cm (round to 2m if you are short of fabric or 2.5m for extra oomph). My fabric was only 200cm long X 115cm wide so I decided to make my bottom layers shorter. I cut my top layer at 21cm, then I cut 3 more pieces which were 16cm wide (that’s the top tier X3) and 6 more pieces which were 6cm wide (top tier X3 X2 = 6 lenghts). I made the waistband with the leftover fabric. These measurements included my seam allowance to get a 40 cm long skirt.

To sum up, get a piece of fabric 2m to 2.5m long and cut 10 stripes. Your first tier will have one length (21cm wide), the second will have 3 (16cm wide) and the third will have 6 (6cm wide). Much easier, right?

Assembling the skirt

Now that you have all the pieces cut let’s join them together. I used a French seam to do so. I sew my pieces wrong sides together then again right sides together. This hides the edges but it is optional. Remember tier 1 is just one piece, tier 2 has 3 parts and tier 3 has 6 parts. You will end up with three very long strips of fabric. You can make the waistband with the leftovers.

Time to gather all those ruffles. I would highly recommend you to get a ruffler foot. You can get it for less than £5 and it will save you a lot of time. Keep in mind your longest piece is at least 12 meters long. Using the ruffler foot I was able to gather and sew the pieces together at the same time. How awesome is that?

Don’t forget to add a zipper and finish the edges. In this particular skirt it is actually a good idea if you do so before you start gathering. I used my serger because it was much quicker and the pattern disguised the thread very well.

Finally, you need to add a waistband. Inserting an elastic band is a possibility too but the waistband looks nicer in my opinion. It is pretty straightforward. Add some interfacing to the fabric. Right sides together with the top of your skirt sew about 1 cm in and fold the fabric on itself hiding the raw edges inside. Top stitch or hand sew the waistband in place. It is basically like adding giant bias tape.

And that’s it for this lolita tiered skirt tutorial, finish it with a cute bow and wear it with a petticoat underneath for extra puffyness. It will look amazing if you wear it with a puffy shirt.

Liked my tutorial? Remember you can support me on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays and more tutorials to share with you! Also, if you are looking for patterns and cosplay related downloadables make sure to check my collection!

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Make a petticoat step by step

There are many types of petticoats. The number of layers, the finishing of the edges and the general shape of your garment will vastly depend on your project. In this case I will show you how to make the typical petticoat you would wear under a 50s style dress. In this example it will have 4 levels and a base and each layer will have ruffles atached to it.

The first step for your petticoat is to make the base. The base skirt is usually a half circle skirt that you can make with cotton or lining fabric. You can choose to make the skirt for your petticoat exactly with your measurements or slightly bigger so you can just run an elastic through it and forget about the closures. Once you cut your patter you can also mark the position of each layer. I chose to space them every 10cm.

Each tier is just a long rectangle of tulle fabric. Later on we will bunch the fabric to make ruffles. To account for the ruffles you want at least twice the length of each circumference you marked on your skirt. You can ruffle your fabric the old fashion way or you can get a ruffler foot which will save you a lot of time.

The Maths

As I am sure you would love to skip the Maths for this skirt I decided to write up some round numbers for you. The measurements below are for a skirt with a hip circumference of 100cm and a length of 40cm. It will fit easily a size S/M without a closure.

• S/M skirt: Radius 32cm – Length 40cm
• Tier 1: 10 x 400 cm
• Tier 2: 20 x 350 cm
• Tier 3: 30 x 250 cm
• Tier 4: 40 x 200 cm

However, if you decide to venture yourself in the world of Maths you can easily calculate your circunference using the following formula.

• Fabric length = π (3.14) x Radius x 2 (or the length of your ruffle)

Each of the rectangles above also have ruffled fabric attached to it for extra puffyness. You can use trim, ribbon or more tulle. I decided to cut long pieces of tulle. sew them in one long piece and fold them in half. If you want the exact length you just need to double your previous measurements for the tiers (about 35 m total). Don’t forget to add the trim to your base skirt as well!

Final steps

I find it easier to close my skirt after I have attached all the ruffles. But it is possible to close the skirt first and then sew the trims on top. Also, a zig zag stitch is a very neat option to attach each layer. Another alternative is to embellish them sewing ribbon on top of each tier.

Finally, you want to close your petticoat. It is possible to add a zipper at the back and a few snap on buttons if you find it too tight. However, it is just much easier to run an elastic band through the waistband. Just make sure your hips get through the opening. Remember you can use bias tape for the waist if you prefer it.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Remember you can support my blog in many ways, clicking my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or using some of my patterns and cosplay related downloadables! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Rolled hem for circle skirts technique

The reason why hemming a circle skirt may become a tricky task is that the length of your circle at the bottom decreases in concentrical circles as you fold it up. It is almost impossible to iron the hem without getting horrible creases. Very often you have to embed the extra fabric or use bias tape to bind the edges instead. This is the way I do a rolled hem for circle skirts still using my sewing machine and no extra aid.

1. Following the seam, sew a straight line about 5cm away from the border.
2. Fold the seam inwards and sew very close to the border, about 2cm. Your previous stitch should show at the border.
3. Trim the excess very close to the stitches.
4. Fold the border again and topstitch the seam

As you can see, the edge of your circle skirt will be straight and crisp. In some problematic areas, like those on the bias, you may still get a few creases. However, very often they will disappear after you iron the garment. Another good trick is to raise and lower the shank of your machine every few centimeters to make sure your machine is feeding the fabric from the top and the bottom at the same time.

You can use this technique to make a rolled hem for circle skirts but also any other garment with a circular shape. It is very useful if you decide to make a cloak. Experiment and practice and you will get perfect hems in no time.

Do you like my posts? Remember you can support my blog in many ways, using my affiliate links, buying me a Ko-fi, or visiting my Cosplay Store! Following me on my Social Media and sharing my posts helps too! With your help I can create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you!

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Quick tip to understand fabric

Fabric terminology can be a bit confusing. Keep in mind that when we name a fabric we often refer to some of its characteristics. The type of fiber used and the type of weave or knit are some of the most common factors to classify them. They can also specify their use, weight or design they feature.

For example, when we talk about cotton poplin, we know the fiber or material is cotton and the type of weave (the way in which fibers interlock) is called poplin. On the other hand, cotton jersey would have cotton as the fiber employed but in this case the fabric would be knitted with a jersey stitch.

Fabrics for cosplay and best ways to use them

This is a list of my favourite types of fabrics, once you get to know your materials you may prefer to use different ones. There are many others that I don’t mention here and I recommend you to visit your local store to test all these fabrics by yourself. Also, I included some alternatives to each fabric that may give you similar results but would probably not be my first choice. The ultimate choice will depend on the project and your preferences. These are my favourite fabrics for cosplay. Click the links in the pictures for more information on how I made them.

1. Poplin for light garments

Cotton poplin is one of the most versatile fabrics you can get for cosplay. With a flat surface, it is very easy to sew and handle and relatively inexpensive. When you think of cotton fabric the fabric that usually comes to mind is probably poplin. This material is tightly woven and it is usually the base for shirts and some skirts and dresses.

As an alternative to cotton you can get polycotton fabrics. These are a blend of cotton and polyester and can be much cheaper. Cotton or polycotton you can usually find them grouped under the name shirting material or sheeting material, the second being of less quality.

An alternative to poplin is linen and linen look fabrics, which have their own type of weave, and usually come from the flax plant. Linen is very light and not as tightly woven as poplin. It gives a more rustic look and works well for medieval and fantasy garments. However, I find it more difficult to handle and tends to fray and warp much more.

2. Twill for a bit of structure

Twill refers to a type of weave with a diagonal pattern in the shape of little arrows. It is a strong fabric, relatively thick and with good drape. The light and medium versions are very easy to sew. It is ideal for jackets, coats and uniforms.

Maybe you have heard of chino, denim or gabardine. These are all different types of twill fabrics. What changes is the thickness, use and the way the materials are handled. You may want to investigate a bit more when you make your next garment as there are many possibilities.

If you need a cozy jacket, coat or cloak tweed may be your fabric. Made with wool, this woven twill fabric is rough, thick and very warm. Be careful as it can be tricky to sew it. Also it can warp while you handle it.

3. Satin to go to a ball

Usually made with silk or polyester, one of the characteristics of satin is that it is shiny on one side and dull on the other. It can be quite inexpensive, however I find cheap, bad quality satin gives a carnavalesque look to cosplay. Satin looks best on dresses and special occasion wear. And on a pinch you can even use the “wrong side” of the fabric to obtain a different texture. Most of the time it is easy to sew but make sure your needle is sharp or you may pull some threads from the fabric.

Similar to satin, the sateen is usually a woven cotton fabric and it tends to be less shiny and less slippery than satin. It makes beautiful dresses with a sturdier structure.

Another alternative to satin if you need a fabric with some shine but with more structure is taffeta (as the fabric I used on Mulan’s coat below). This fabric has a plain-weave and it is very crisp.

4. Chiffon for see through garments

There are many lightweight alternatives but chiffon is my favourite. It is very fine and translucent. It looks great as an overlay on top of other fabrics and it has a lot of movement. However, it is difficult to handle it and it won’t work if you need to create a garment with structure. A slightly thicker and less see through fabric is the georgette.

For a crisp alternative you can use organza. It works beautifully on seethrough bows or poofy translucent sleeves. Also, it tends to be much shinier than chiffon.

For added volume and petticoats, do not forget the tulle, which has a net look to it and is very inexpensive.

5. Velvet for royalty and magic

Velvet is a very royal fabric. I like to use it to create contrast and texture in some of my cosplays. I especially like the blend with Spandex which makes it elastic.

Crushed velvet is the cheaper alternative to velvet. It is however very slippery and more difficult to handle. The edges tend to roll and curl.

Don’t forget you can use velour and fleece to make plush toys. They have a similar soft texture but would probably not work for many garments.

6. Spandex for superheroes

Also called lycra or elastane, it is a broad term that describes fabrics that contain this man-made fiber which is very elastic. 2-way stretch or 4-way stretch, it is usually a plain woven fabric and it is the main material you can find in bodysuits. This fabric is quite difficult to sew but much needed for any superhero cosplay. It is a must if you want to sew a bodysuit.

An easy variation, yet less stretchy fabric, is the neoprene or scuba (see my Sailor Moon bodysuit above), which mixes spandex with other fibers like cotton or polyester. Do not worry, it doesn’t look like the material used for scuba diving suits.

Other stretch fabrics include knits like jersey or ribbed knits. However, I don’t really like these as they unravel very easily and are difficult to sew. They make great materials for t-shirts and jumpers but most of the time it is easier and cheaper to buy these types of garments.

7. Leatherette for the warrior in you

For the animal lovers that don’t want to use real leather, this fabric is the solution. There are many types. I would be careful not to choose the thicker upholstery fabrics as they are extremely difficult to sew and they don’t make good garments.

Suede is also a type of fuzzy leather that you can replace with faux suede. For an even cheaper version you have suedette, but it tends to be flimsier and doesn’t hold its shape by itself.

Again, if you are a defendant of animals remember you can get fake fur, the more expensive deluxe fur is a game changer and does look like the real thing.

Conclusion

Ultimately, the choice of material will depend on your project and your personal preferences. The best way to know which material to use is to go to the fabric shop and touch the different fabrics until you find the one you think will work better. Things like weight or thickness will vary within each group.

Looking for your next project? Browse my patterns and cosplay related downloadables. They come with full instructions and fabric recommendations. Remember you can also support my blog on Ko-fi, there are no subscriptions and you will help me create more cosplays, articles and tutorials to share with you! If you click any of my affiliate links and use my promo codes (ALICECOS) you will help me too!

Let me know if you agree with my choice of materials in the comments or open a discussion on my Social Media on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter.

The post Top 7 favourite fabrics for cosplay appeared first on Alice in Cosplayland.

Also, there are other reasons. Maybe you detangled your curly wig just to realise it had lost its shape. Or maybe you just need to curl a part of your wig and keep the rest straight. No matter the reason, using the hot water method to curl your wig is not always an option as it takes too long to dry. Here comes your hair iron to the rescue.

How to curl your wig

Wigs are different from human hair so do not expect them to be as easy to style as your everyday look. Very often they will resist you, but with a bit of patience and the right tools you will manage to win the battle. Always make sure you have a heat resistant wig and try your iron on a hidden side before you start. I recommend you the wigs from Uniqso, as they are high quality and great to work with. You also get a discount if you enter the code ALICECOS and believe me, they make a difference from the cheap one I am using for this tutorial.

Getting ready

For my wig I decided to use a hot iron wand that came as an extension of my hot iron, they come in different sizes and you can make very different styles with them. Using a normal hot iron is a possibility but can prove more difficult and you will get bigger curls than with a wand. Always use the lowest setting of your iron if possible. Curling your wig with hot water is also a possibility if you don’t have a wand, but you will have less control over it and you wig will need time to dry.

The easiest way to work with your wig is by using a wig head. Clamp it to your table or stick it to a pole that you can comfortably move. A wig stand is very inexpensive and will save you a lot of trouble and messing around.

First steps

In order to curl your wig you need to make sure that your hair is detangled and smooth. You also want your wig to be as straight as possible, you can use your straightener to do this or if you have time to let it dry use the hot water to straighten your wig method. Also, it is the time now to trim your wig if necessary.

Once the wig is prepared you will want to section it. You are going to be working with a strand at a time. Flat clips and bobby pins will be your best help here. Start by sectioning the bottom of your wig and clamp the rest away in a not too tidy bun.

A curl at a time

Grab a strand of hair at a time no bigger than the width of your iron wand circumference. Comb it again until it is completely smooth. This step is crucial for a perfect mess free curl. You will start by heating your strand of hair sliding the iron and straightening the fibers once or twice.

Then, position your hair half way the length on your wand, start twisting slowly and opening the wand an inch at a time. Pull down till you reach the bottom and try to keep as much hair touching the wand as possible as you roll it up to your wig cap.

Hold your iron a few seconds and slowly release the hair. The trick here is to hold the curl in your hand for a minute to let it cool before you let go. Letting go will create a nice wave, however do not let go yet if you are aiming for a really tight curl.

Really tight curls

If you are aiming for really tight locks the best thing to do is to keep the locks in place with a flat clip. Bobby pins can be used but they may leave a mark on your hair and tangle more easily. Don’t be like me and get your supplies ready before you start.

Once your wig looks like an old lady’s at the hairdresser’s gently spray with strong hold hairspray all over the wig and let it dry. My favourite is got2b by Schwarzkopf. A fine layer will be enough. If you are in a hurry you can use the hairdryer in a low setting to speed up the process. And remember not to leave your iron on the wig for too long or it will finally melt.

Extra tips

I find my ringlets will keep their shape more easily if you use hairspray on each one just before you curl it. Also, if you make sure all the curls face the same way your wig will look tidier. Consider this specially for the fringe and locks surrounding your face.

It takes trial an error to get the curls right. If you are not happy or your curl didn’t stay as you wanted, straighten the fibers and start from the beginning. Also, you may need to tidy your curls to make sure they are all in the right direction. You will neeed to loosen them and place them properly after you take the pins away.

Finally, I use a net like the ones where you usually store your wigs to keep my ringlets from falling down while I store it. You can actually wear one of these to the con as long as it is a similar colour to your wig. They are hardly noticeable and will avoid tangles. You may get away detangling your curly wig if you are careful but keep in mind that you will need to repeat all the process if it gets too messy.

It is now time to practice those tight curls on you wig. If you are stuck for new ideas to sew, make sure you check my pattern collection. Also, if you liked this review and want to give me you support to keep me going consider supporting me on Ko-fi, it all goes to new projects and there is no subscription needed!

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Sometimes it is difficult to find the pattern or details you want for your fabric and your only solution is to paint it. If you follow my advice it shouldn’t be difficult to get good results on your fabric and it will make it stand out. In this article I am going to cover how to traditionally paint your fabric with a brush, but remember that you can also use stencils, sprays or even print your design on an iron on

Painting fabric tips

These are just some ideas that I have picked up through the years. Once you get used to it I am sure you will get many others. Always try to do what’s more comfortable to you while painting fabric. Be aware that for a perfect finish you will want to be prepared.

Before you start

• Decide on your fabric. Some fabrics are easier to paint than others. Canvas and cottons are some of the best ones. Stretch fabric will be more difficult to paint and the designs will last less time. You can always paint your design on canvas and use it as an applique if you need to.
• Wash your fabric before painting it. I don’t always follow my own advice as my cosplays are so delicate I usually handwash them and only use them a few times. However, for a lasting finish you may want to wash your fabric. All fabrics come with some kind of starch from the factory that protects them from dust and impurities. If you want your paint to last it is better to wash it.
• Sketch your design on paper first. Always design your drawing before painting it. Preferably don’t sketch directly over your fabric. You won’t be able to fix mistakes later and any pencil lines will be very visible if you commit a mistake.
• A lightbox or tracing paper are good ideas to trace the design. Once you have your design you will want to transfer it to your fabric. If your fabric is thin enough you may be able to use a lightbox to reproduce your sketch. If it is too thick you can trace it with tracing paper on top of your fabric. Keep in mind that any mistakes will show trough, use a similar colour to your finished product. Dressmaking pens are the best idea but you won’t always be able to use them.
• Protect the area underneath your fabric. Paint is very likely to soak through fabric and you don’t want to stain your working space. Preferably put plastic under the fabric, not paper. The paper may stick to your fabric and stain the back of your painting. It becomes messy. Keep in mind that if you are painting for example a t-shirt you will need to place your protection inside it, so it doesn’t soak to the back.
• Test a scrap of fabric before you start. You will be able to practice and determine what is best for your painting. You may need to thin some paints with water but be careful not to overdo it or they will stain the fabric. This is your chance to test the right consistency and the look of your paint over the fabric.

Painting your fabric

• Use fabric paint. You can also use acrylics but they may crack in larger areas. If you can’t find the right colour try adding fabric medium to your acrylic paint. It works the same as a fabric paint which makes your paint more elastic. Some fabrics like silk are very different to normal fabric and may need totally different techniques.
• Use the correct brush for your design. The quality of your brush matters and a good brush will help you do the task better. Use large brushes for big areas and small brushes for tiny parts. Don’t be afraid to change often. A flatbrush works great for straight shapes and a fine point will help outline any painting. I find it easier to work from the outside inwards.
• Paint from left to right and from top to bottom (reverse if you are left-handed). You will avoid stains on your arm and hand and won’t smudge your paint if you do this. Be careful on where you place your hands and wash any stains immediately to avoid accidents. Fabric soaks the paint and keeps the material wet for long periods, be careful not to touch or smudge it.
• Apply at least 2 layers. Ideally you want two layers for every colour but light ones will be the more obvious. They are more see-through and need building up to look good. Make sure you wait and let your paint dry between each layer. Also, if your colour is not showing through, try applying a first layer of white to the area to get more vibrant colours. Always test before you commit.
• Clean your brushes often. You should at least clean them for different colours. Otherwise, your paint will get mixed. Also, your paint will start drying on your brush after a while and will make it difficult to use.
• Try gradients and outlining your paintings. They give them extra volume and they look much better. For a gradient you may need to mix the paint while it is still wet. Cleaning your brush on a paper towel will get the excess of paint from your brush and will create a fading effect when you dab it on the fabric. A very fine line around your painting will make it stand out too. Don’t be afraid to experiment.

After you have finished

• Allow time to dry. Even if you think your piece is ready, allow extra time to make sure it is completely dry. You don’t want a nasty surprise and stain your fabric or another piece.
• Iron your finished piece. You can put a cloth on top and iron it after it is dry. Most fabric paints recommend you to iron the paint so it sticks better to your fabric. Always follow the instructions of the bottle.
• Handwash your painted garments. Although you can put them in the washing machine they will last longer if you gently wash them with some soap and hang them from a line to dry.

I have used these methods for cosplays like Ignis, Emilia, Ran Mao, Raven or Koujaku. It shouldn’t be difficult to start painting your own projects. However, it does take practice as well as trial and error to improve.

I hope my best tips for painting fabric helped you, let me know if you have any others! And if you are stuck for new ideas to sew, make sure you check my pattern collection. If you liked this article and want to give me your support to keep me going consider supporting me on Ko-fi, it all goes to new projects and there is no subscription needed!

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